This is every bit as elegant as the Valmur with nuanced, highly layered, discreet and very pure aromas of understated green fruit and almost pungent tidal pool aromas that are followed by rounded, focused and incredibly complex flavors displaying notes of warm stone and oyster shell. The texture and mouth feel of this are positively seductive as the finish is a liaison of richness and delicacy with that silky yet explosive finish that all the great examples of Preuses seem to possess. A wine of crystalline purity that is every bit as good as the Valmur. Another don't miss Fèvre '07. Tasted: Oct 01, 2008 Score: 93-96 points Drink: 2014+ Comments: Don't miss! Issue 32 Allen Meadows; Burghound
The Vintage: Fevre 2007 – “A unique vintage”: Régisseur Didier Séguier describes 2007 as “a unique vintage. April was the hottest month that the region has seen in over 80 years with temperatures exceeding 40° C (104° F) and it was extremely dry as well. As a result, the vineyards were at least 3 weeks more advanced than usual and flowering was finished by the end of May. Unfortunately, there was hail and we were hit by 3 of the 4 hail storms that hit Chablis in 2007. The worst damage for us was done in Montée de Tonnerre and Monts de Milieu though there was scattered damage in other vineyards. Then, the weather abruptly turned and July and August were cool and damp yet the health of the grapes remained relatively good with minimal rot pressure. The ban de vendange (officially mandated harvesting date) was declared on September 1st but we didn’t begin picking until the 6th and even then only in the hail-damaged vineyards due to their much lower crop loads. We then stopped until the 9th and picked under ideal conditions through the 16th as there was no need to rush. The skins were thick and the grapes healthy, even in the hailed on sectors.
We did a slightly longer lees settling than normal just to be sure but other than that, it was a normal vinification. Sugars were varied but essentially good, coming in between 10 and 12% with acidities that were comparable to 2004, which is to say post-malo pHs of 3.15 to 3.3. The alcoholic fermentations were even and everything finished within the first three weeks. The malos also proceeded more or less normally. We have already begun bottling some wines and will finish everything, including the grands crus, by the end of July. In terms of the wines themselves, despite the obvious similarities to 2004, 2007 is riper though both vintages absolutely respect the classification hierarchy almost perfectly. The two vintages are also stylistically similar and possess excellent aging potential. I like the 2007 vintage a lot as the wines have plenty of classic Chablis character, which should please purists. Allen Meadows; Burghound
