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French » Burgundy »

Leroy Romanee Saint Vivant Grand Cru 2003

Lalou Bize-Leroy could barely control her enthusiasm for the 2003 vintage, calling it a “magnificent millésime with near perfect balance and all the acidity that the wines need to age for a long time. We had normal yields (between 12 and 20 hl/ha), if you wish to call it that because our yields are always low, because we have old vines and they have adapted to the rigors imposed by la biodynamie, which forces the roots systems deeper into the soil. Thus, my vines had adequate nutrients and water sources to better withstand the intense heat of the summer. Sugars averaged about 13.5% and there were no additions of any kind.” Indeed, Mme. Bize’s sole concession about the quality of 2003 was that it was “perhaps” not as gifted as other vintageswith respect to transparency of terroir. As was the case with the Leroy ‘02s, both the d’Auvenay and Leroy ‘03s were bottled in July, which except for certain lower level wines at some producers, I believe this to be the earliest across-the-board mise in 2003 of any major domaine. As was the case with many growers this vintage, there was no particular qualitative pattern with this range of ‘03s. While the grands crus are clearly better as a group, some of them are not necessarily better than certain of the Leroy 1ers. Also, as was the case in 2002, the Nuits “Lavières” and “Aux Allots” were combined into a generic Nuits in 2003 because of the vinification challenges resulting from the miniscule yields from these two vineyards. Additionally, in Issue 13 I noted that certain of the‘02s were displaying a distinct oak char and I again bring to your attention that some of these ‘03s are displaying strong char, particularly aromatically as well. My scores assume that the oak will be absorbed with time as there is certainly sufficient density to do so. As an overall comment, this is a great group of ‘03s but there is perhaps more variation in quality than I found in ‘01 or ‘02. Allan Meadows, Burghound

2003 Romanée St.-Vivant: (from a 1 ha parcel planted in 1924). This is often my favorite wine in this remarkable collection of stars and the ’03 again puts for its candidacy for best in show as the dazzling nose positively explodes with a kaleidoscopic collection of spices and aromas that are breathtaking in their complexity followed by flavors that achieve an inexplicable combination of finesse and power. Rich, sweet, impeccably well-balanced and harmonious, this stains the palate with the powerful yet wonderfully detailed and precise flavors of flat out amazing intensity. This is a great wine and particularly so for the vintage. While the Chambertin is its qualitative equal, this RSV and the Clos de la Roche are my two favs in ’03. 95/2015+  Allan Meadows, Burghound