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French » Bordeaux »

Montrose 2006

St Estephe. This is the first vintage produced under the full control of Jean-Bernard Delmas, the person responsible for so many of the great Haut-Brions between 1961 and 2003. Yields were kept low (41 hectoliters per hectare), and for the first time, the entire vineyard was crop-thinned. About 60% of the production made it into the final blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Merlot and Petit Verdot. The deep ruby/purple-hued 2006 possesses classic aromas of creamy blackberries, cassis, flowers, and crushed rocks. It is medium-bodied with a multilayered texture, sweeter, more finely tuned tannin than past vintages, and a powerful finish. There has been no compromise to the wine’s massive richness and density, but rather an emphasis on taming some of the huge tannins Montrose produces. It is an outstanding, fresh, lively effort that appears to be a brilliant achievement for the vintage. The tannin level ranks alongside such great Montrose vintages as 2005, 1990, and 1989, but they are noticeably sweeter. It should age handsomely for 30 or more years. Robert Parker 92-95
 
Jean-Bernard Delmas has instituted a green harvest in the vineyards to get riper fruit and less rustic tannins. yields were lower than average at 41 hl/ha. and in the winery, more gentle handling by using remontage (pumping over) and not délestage (rack and return). 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% merlot. 60% new oak. Very dark crimson. Not that much nose but great sweetness on the palate. Then and only then the dryness of Saint-Estèphe. Not sure there is quite the focus of montrose in its best vintages in the 21st century but presumably the team, under Jean-Bernard Delmas’ direction, will get there. a little moue and soft for montrose. Slightly inky on the finish. Not quite the weight required for this amount of dryness. I feel. surely an interim vintage. ipt 80. there is freshness and vivacity. Energy. Jancis Robinson MW 17.5