It’s a consciously ‘off-dry’ Riesling from the Nepenthe Lenswood block, which Peter leske made into dry Riesling for his former masters for a decade. The tasting note explains what the ‘25GR’ designation means, and describes this innovative style. It too has received the attention of the criticsand is set to become the definitive Adelaide Hills ‘Germanic’ Riesling style.

Hand-picked when ripe but with slightly higher acidity and lower baumé than would be ideal for a dry style, the fruit was made into wine very simply: chilled, carefully pressed, racked clean and fermented cool. When the almost-dry wine tasted balanced – which turned out to be with 25 grams of residual sugar (hence 25GR) – the fermentation was stopped with chilling. The wine was then stabilised and readied for bottle with a minimum of intervention.

The key word when describing the wine is balanced. It is a complex combination of fruit intensity, acidity, sweetness, and alcohol. Each attribute is in harmony with the other, resulting in a wine that has genuine charm and poise. Sealed with the relatively new Stelvin ‘Lux’ closure, it will age well for several years, developing toasty complexity as the primary fruit fragrance evolves.

Another definitely worth a look is the Vertigo Riesling 25GR 2008 ($24) from the Adelaide Hills. Young, fresh, with plenty of spice, lemons and lavender notes, it is well balanced and with a nice, zippy, clean finish. There is moderate sweetness but it is just one aspect of the complete package. Ken Gargett; The Courier Mail

An inventive riesling in the classic Germanic style from a high-altitude vineyard in the Adelaide Hills. Delicate and floral with lingering sweetness to balance razor-high acidity. (The 25GR stands for 25g of residual sugar). Perfumed orange blossom, jasmine and pink lady apple with fresh musky sweetness and honey. The Adelaide Magazine

Winemaker Peter Leske and David LeMire, MW, have put some focus into this appealing riesling, starting with a recognisable set of lime-cordial notes and attractive floars before the palate grabs attention with excellent spicy acidity and textures offset by a just-there, almost aromatic sweetness. Summer is so good. 93 points; The Advertiser 'Indulge'.

The 25GR in the name refers to the 25 grams per litre of residual sugar left in this Adelaide Hills wine. It shows sweet lime, spice and floral talc, aromas that introduce a palate thats sweet but not syrupy or cloying. It retains good varietal identitiy and a zesty signature. Ralph Kyte-Powell, Epicure

Vertigo is defined as a sensation of dizziness. This wine sails up to the giddy heights of 25g/L of residual sugar. It offers plenty of sweet floral fraqrance and a soft sweet apple palate that tightens up nicely with a good chill. 92 points; Wine Business Monthly; WBM 100