This too is sublime in its subtlety and grace with ineffably pure aromas and it strikes a balance between the opulence of the RSV and the restraint of the GE with an expressive yet ultra fine nose of rose petals, violets and seductive spice notes that introduce unbelievably refined flavors that seem crafted from silk and lace, culminating in a linear, mouth coating finish that detonates like a bomb and lasts and lasts. At present, this is taut and precise with the lithe muscularity of a world class gymnast yet it is not lean or unduly tight as there is a generosity to the mid-palate that serves to buffer the underlying tannic spine that will permit this to age for decades. This is clearly a great wine and I wouldn't be surprised at all if my rating went up simply because I expect that this will put on weight with age. Tasted: Jan 01, 2006 Score: 93-96 Drink: 2020+ Comments: Don't miss! Issue 21 Allen Meadows, Burghound

I had a chance to taste the 2004s twice, approximately 14 days apart. While there were minor differences, from a critic's perspective I was very pleased to see how consistent the wines showed. Interestingly, there seem to be two distinctly different styles within these 2004s with one side being opulent, open and accessible and the other being reserved, linear and understated. And for the exactly the same reason since I had a chance to taste the domaine's 2003s twice as well, all of the bottled '03s came within the predicted ranges. They're distinctly different from the '04s and '02s but not without considerable interest. From what I hear in the marketplace, they will be frightfully expensive but the quality will not disappoint. Note: de Villaine indicated that the domaine will in all probability produce the Cuvée Duvault-Blochet in 2004 and I have included a review herein.

I have mentioned in prior Issues the sky rocketing quality of the Romanée St. Vivant, which started in 1995 but reached serious traction with 2001 as it surpassed both the Grands Echézeaux and the Richebourg. It has done so again in 2003 as it's truly a spectacular wine, indeed only slightly behind the La Tâche. It seems to have given up a bit in 2004, perhaps because of the hail damage though we'll see what happens next year once it is in bottle. Allen Meadows, Burghound