Alcohol 13.4%. This wine was grown on the McCreanor Vineyard Princess Street, Martinborough from 27 year old vines. A combination of slightly heavier soils and a single clone, 10/5 on own roots, always rewards us with this particular style; soft, ripe, pure fruit expressions in an exceedingly New World Pinot Noir. It was open topped fermented in traditional wooded cuves, hand plunged every 8 hours, with a total vat time of 20 days. After pressing it was matured in 30% new French oak barriques for 12 months. It was fined using a minimum of egg whites to protect the flavours but aid brightness in the glass, promoting soft mouth feel and texture. It will continue to develop for up to 15 years and will always be a wonderful counterpart to any game food. Larry McKenna

Escarpment Pahi Pinot Noir 2008 ($65) immediately shows more elegance and refinement after the 'district' blend and has that deep, almost anise-y spice I adore in Pinot Noir. Tannins are fine and silky and the flavour is earthy and savoury with mouthfilling richness and that lovely cherry guava thing going on - perhaps those NZ cranberry (Chilean guava) - with hints of smoke and fruit sweetness to the aftertaste. I detect some tea-like tannin flavour coming through too. A fascinating wine. Sue Courtney, wineoftheweek.com (NZ)