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Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2004

A collective sigh of relief greeted the release of this great wine under screwcap. In a tasting earlier this year I wrote that the fruit literally sings (like Leeuwin's annual concerts): white peach, nectarine and grapefruit are the sopranos, barrel ferment and limited malolactic fermentation the orchestra behind. Over the intervening six months the wine has moved into an even higher register of perfection. $92, S, 14.5%; From: Margaret River, WA; Drink: Now-2019; 97 points & Halliday’s Top 100 – The Weekend Australian November 10-11, 2007
 
Aromas of dried pear, honeydew melon, citrus, cloves and plenty of spicy vanilla and nuts oak. Woodsy and almost aftershave like. On the palate full bodied and intense with flavours of pear, lemon drops, peach and almond nougat backed with a liberal application of spicy oak. Some savoury lees derived flavours add complexity but do not muddle the clarity of the fruit. There is a little warmth from alcohol and direct clean acidity adds cut and sparkle but no hardness. Enormous length of flavour. One of the best of the best. Rated : 96 Points; Drink : 2008 - 2018; Gary Walsh; Winorama

The just-released 2004 ($91) is a stellar wine - in my view, the best Art Series chardonnay since the fabulous 1995 and possibly the best ever. Peter Forrestal, The Sunday Times
 
A stylish, elegant and seamless chardonnay whose floral aromas of grapefruit, lemon, mango and sweet vanilla oak overlie nuances of mineral, pineapple and honeysuckle. Initially round and juicy, it’s long and mouthfilling, with a core of explosively intense fruit. It finishes with clean acids and a hint of minerality, and while it’s a first class wine, it remains a little less defined and is likely to mature earlier than the top vintages. (Margaret River, 95/100, drink 2009-2012+) Jeremy Oliver

Notwithstanding the challenges of Yattarna, Giaconda, Petaluma Tiers and so forth, Leeuwin is my choice as Australia's best Chardonnay. James Halliday

"No matter how many times I participate in vertical tastings of Leeuwin chardonnays, I continue to be
mesmerised by the complexity and quality of these wines. They are fruit-driven, not oak-pushed; they have exceptional balance, structure, line and length; they have a Burgundian ability to wrap a complex cloth around a core of marvellous varietal fruit; there is a paradoxical mix of family similarity and individuality; and they have exceptional longevity." James Halliday

 

A succession of brilliant vintages and an extraordinary consistency of style, has made Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay the most highly prized Australian white wine on the secondary market. Indeed, it now sits with Penfolds Grange in the Exceptional category of Langton’s Classification. The Block 20 vineyard is a source of the most extraordinary and exquisite Chardonnay fruit imaginable. Andrew Caillard MW

 

It would be easy to write that the 2004 Leeuwin Estate Art Series has a hard act to follow, particularly after Wine Spectator editor at large Harvey Steiman said of the 2001 "this gets my vote for the greatest white wine Australia has ever produced" and Jeremy Oliver described the 2002 "a wine that in my opinion will earn the right to be classed amongst the very greatest of its kind". Though this would be nothing new to the team at Leeuwin who have amassed extraordinary accolades for this wine over the last 20 years. Those wishing to speculate about the quality of the 2004 should consider the exceptional quality of 2004 Margaret River whites (rated 8/10 by Halliday). Also consider the last few vintages of this wine;
 
1997 - Halliday 5 Stars; Oliver 97/100; Wine Spectator 97/100;
1998 - Halliday 5 Stars; Oliver 95/100; Wine Spectator 94/100;
1999 - Halliday 97/100; Oliver 95/100; Wine Spectator 95/100;
2000 - Halliday 96/100; Oliver 95/100; Wine Spectator 93/100;
2001 - Halliday 97/100; Oliver 96/100; Wine Spectator 98/100;
2002 - Halliday 96/100; Oliver 97/100; Wine Spectator 96/100;
2003 - Halliday 94/100; Oliver 97/100;

The colour is bright straw with lime green hues. The fresh nose is classical Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay, with intensely lifted aromas of ripe yellow pear skins and ripe peach accompanied by hints of fig and cashews from barrel maturation on yeast lees with integrated French oak. These flavours combine into a finely balanced bouquet; the result of very low yielding vines matched with subtle winemaking to preserve the richness of the fruit.
 
The palate displays the mouth filling and intense flavours of fresh ripe pears which is full and rich intermingling with delicious stone fruit flavours. The middle palate shows richness from both the fruit and the lees stirring. The length, always a feature of Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay, is long and full flavoured with a lingering fresh citrus finish. The new French oak complements the fruit providing a wonderful balance of warm toasty flavours on the finish


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