One of the interesting things about the Raveneau wines over the years is how uncannily they seem to exactly represent the vintage characteristics. You will find that each of these three vintages is entirely different from one another. The 2001s are more forward, rounder and slightly sweeter; friendlier if you will. By contrast, the 2000s are a blend of the 2001s and the 1999s in that they are not as austere and backwards as the '99s but neither are they as forward or exuberant as the 2001s. Because I am an enthusiastic admirer of classic Chablis, which is to say that understated, slightly austere, penetrating style of wine with pronounced acidity and chiseled flavors, I very much like the Raveneau '99s but be aware that they may be a bit too lean for some tastes.

Tasting note: This too is very understated yet expressive and one knows instantly that this can only be Chablis. Round, full, supple and nicely intense flavors are supported by a solid and ripe acid backbone plus a bit more weight and density than the Montmains. This is really quite lovely with a tangy finish. Be sure to decant this in advance as the intensity really comes on after 30 minutes or so of air. Tasted: Oct 01, 2002 Score: 88 Drink: 2006-12 Issue 8 Burghound