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The 2007 Vasse Felix Semillon is fresh and zesty with a lifted vibrant perfume of dried herbal notes, fresh lemon and tropical lime. Partial fermentation in oak and time on lees provides a spicy clove and vanillin note with a charred, yeasty complexity. The palate shows great weight with clean varietal flavours of lime and freshly cut grass with the crisp acidity providing a long backbone to support the pure fruit flavours through to the finish. The question with wood-aged semillon is typically when is enough oak enough? Margaret River semillons have oscillated over the years between the clunkily over-wooded to the super-greenish battery acid-like extremes, achieving most success with deftly, sensitively oaked semillons whose fruit is still allowed to play first violin. Here’s a beauty, with lightly toasty, vanilla and butter-like nuances beneath some pretty, nettley and cut-grass-like semillon whose juicy melon and citrusy flavours are handsomely enhanced with creamy lees-derived influences. It’s tightly focused and wrapped up with a zesty dose of acidity and delivers a length and brightness that stays and stays with you. (Margaret River, $25 retail, approx., 18.8/95, drink 2009-2012+) Jeremy Oliver
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