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Many of you would note the 'Private Cellar' Shiraz Mourvèdre from this, the 2005 vintage was a 97-point Halliday wine, it really is hard to see the 2005 Hewitson Mad Hatter Shiraz not achieving a similar rating. The nose shows an array of mixed spices and aniseed which turn to chocolate and mocha characters as the wine warms and finds air. Surprisingly approachable in the mouth, it continues with a theme of dark berries intertwined with some sweet oak characters. A lesson here that blockbuster styles can be balanced, this is a keeper for a decade but I'm also happy to drink it now. Drink: Now - 2017; Quality: Exceptional; BW; WineStar© March 2008 This is something special. An exciting expression of McLaren Vale that brings a new degree of subtlety and refinement. Seductive and complex aromas of spice and blueberry with a slight aromatic lift. Palate is soft and supple but with great structure and power. Fine, ripe tannins and great length, a super wine. Check out the independents for this one. 95 points; Ray Jordan, The West Australian This is the essence of regional McLaren Vale shiraz without the warts of yesteryear's wines and retaining tonnes of character. It is deeply coloured and the aromas of spice, violets, black fruits, seasoned oak and mocha are persuasive. It tastes rich and complete with smooth, fine texture and integrated tannins." Ageing? Good now, but ideally needs two to ten years. Food ideas: Steak and kidney pie; lamb shanks. 5 stars * * * * * Ralph Kyte-Powell, The Age Epicure A very good shiraz from this unpleasantly hot vintage. Its deep, nearly baked aromas of blackberries and dark plums overlie slightly meaty, currant like nuances, while there's just a hint of varnish. Sumptuous and juicy, its spicy, full-bodied palate is supported by fine, chalky tannin and packed with searingly intense and almost gamey cassis, raspberry and cherry-like fruit. It finishes with length and freshness, retaining pleasing fruit sweetness. 92 points; Jeremy Oliver, The Australian Wine Annual The 2005 Shiraz "The Mad Hatter" is opaque purple in color with glass-coating glycerin. It offers aromas of cedar, smoke, scorched earth, tar, espresso, blueberry, and blackberry liqueur. This is followed by a full-bodied wine with gobs of fruit, a plush texture, layers of flavour, ripe tannins, and a lengthy finish. Give it 5-7 years in the bottle and drink it through 2030. 92 points; Issue # 173; Jay Miller in Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate Big, rich and mulberry-like- slightly furry tannins-absolutely typical McLaren Vale." 14.5% Screwcap; Highly Recommended; Winewise Vol.23 No.4 Aromas of cassis, blackberry, mocha, Indonesian spices and licorice. Quite perfumed and lively. On the palate full bodied with flavours of blackcurrant, crushed berries, spice, vanilla and chocolate. A bit minerally too. Really vibrant fresh fruit here backed with tasteful French oak. Excellent shape and texture with lovely fine tannins. It's a big wine but has finesse and style. Very fresh long spicy finish. All class. Rated : 93 Points; Price : $50; Closure : Screwcap; Drink : 2007 - 2018; Gary Walsh; Winorama The Mad Hatter has been Hewitson's leading shiraz since the 2002 vintage when the 45 year old vines block on the corner of Long Gully and Seaview Roads produced such outstanding fruit of individual character that it was destined for its own label. The 2004 delivered on that promise and the 2005 appears to be just as good. Inky dark red/purple with aromas of plums, liquorice and dark chocolate, the palate is firmly, but finely, structured with a powerful backbone hidden under lashings of rich fruit. McLaren Vale shiraz can be sweet and clumsy but this shows what old vines, restricted cropping and custodial winemaking can deliver. Christopher Hayes; www.eatanddrink.com.au
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