Vineyards that produce fruit exhibiting exuberant regional characters are located at the cooler western end of the Wairau Valley. The free draining soils and extended ripening conditions suit the style of Sauvignon Blanc that is Momo. Over the years a delightful character of citrus has developed in the grapes grown at this end of the valley. Momo expresses the endowments of a unique mesoclime, a stylish young white exhibiting all the ripe lychee, gooseberry and passionfruit elements which are the hallmarks of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.

Seresin Estate are very close to the land and soils which grow their fruit. Adherance to principles of environmental sustainability means organically grown, hand tended grapes, raised on a cornerstone of working in harmony with nature. The Sauvignon Blanc is picked in the late evening and early morning, at the close of the long Wairau Valley summer, to ensure the fruit comes to the winery cool. Minimal intervention allows the layers of flavour to evolve, the grapes are quickly pressed to capture the personality of the locality. The juice is fermented at a lower temperature, again to retain these characters, then allowed time sitting on yeast lees to give greater palate depth and complexity.

The Momo Sauvignon Blanc is pale in colour with light green hue. Aromas of tropical fruit and citrus with a hint of minerality. The palate is textural and rich with ripe tropical fruit and grapefruit. The wine is balanced with good richness in the middle palate and crisp acidity to give a long and clean finish.

Made from 100% organically grown grapes, this seems quite a savoury style of Sauvignon Blanc, the savouriness probably accentuated by the wild yeast ferment that seems to add a funky veneer to the bright fresh fruity flavours. But there's loads of passionfruit and underlying gooseberry and a spicy zestinesss that is just so, so Marlborough. 13.5% alc. $19. 21Sep2009. Sue Courtney; www.wineoftheweek.com