This year saw the release of some outstanding Chardonnays from the 2006 vintage from right around Australia making it a variety at the top of its game. Interestingly, some brilliant examples emerged from all corners of the country including Ashton Hills Chardonnay 2006 (Adelaide Hills, SA), De Bortoli Yarra Valley Reserve Chardonnay 2006 (Yarra Valley, VIC) and Heggies Reserve Chardonnay 2006 (Eden Valley, SA) but my pick for the year's best emerges from the 'top-end-of-town' so far as this grape is concerned in Margaret River, Western Australia. Leeuwin, Cape Mentelle, Cullen and Devils Lair all have brilliant 2006 Chardonnay but the Voyager Estate Margaret River Chardonnay 2006 is truly one out of the box, even by this winery's exceptionally high standards.

If you look up the Oxford under the word 'balance' you should see a picture of this wine. It is brilliantly structured with elegant, steely characters with raw fruit power. It sees a touch of malo but is never 'fat'. It sees some quality French Oak but it lurks in the background. What's more it has a lovely minerality that extends through a long finish; the same minerality we are told by the snobs cannot exist in Australian Chardonnay. It is an absolute joy to drink; I'd rate it easily in the Exceptional zone and would drink it now and over the next decade. The wine has a sell price of $42 on mailing list, cellar door and at retail level and I know winemaker Cliff Royle would cringe at our $29.99 offer, however we can blame market forces for a week or two whilst you take advantage of it. Drink: Now-2017; Quality: Exceptional; BW; WineStar© July 2008

Again shows why the golden triangle of Margaret River (Leeuwin Estate, Devil’s Lair and Voyager Estate) make such superb chardonnay; there is a taught intensity to the fabric of the wine, allowing the nectarine, grapefruit and melon to play at will with new French oak and come out on top. Superb balance and length. Rating 96 points James Halliday – The Australian Wine Companion - 2008

96 points - Nick Stock (Wine Business Monthly/Penguin Good Wine Guide)

The 06 season yielded top Chardonnay’s in Margaret River. This was my favourite in a class of 57 last year. A restrained, finely structured wine, it has understated oak and beautifully refined fruit. 95/100; Huon Hooke – Good Living – Sydney Morning Herald – 8 July 2008

Voyager Estate, along with Leeuwin and Cullen, make up my “big three” Margaret River Chardonnays i.e. the ones I like best and buy most often. Distinctly cool and minerally with grapefruit, dried pear, fairly subtle vanilla nougat oak and a bit of matchstick. It’s tight and fine boned with intense citrus and pear flavours, a touch of spice and a texture that’s lightly creamy but beautifully balanced by crisp clean acid and flinty mineral characters. Long, fresh and distinguished - it’s a top wine from an exceptional vintage (for whites). Rated : 95 Points; Alcohol : 13.2%; Price : $42; Closure : Screwcap; Drink : 2009 - 2014; Gary Walsh; Winorama

The ultra-cool 2006 season yielded top chardonnays in Margaret River. A restrained, intense, finely structured wine, it has understated oak and beautifully refined fruit. Complex, and all components are in harmony. 95 points / 5 stars; Huon Hooke, 100 Top New Releases, Australian Gourmet Traveller Wine, October/November 2008

Margaret River Chardonnay at its best, the 06 Voyager starts slightly pongy but with five minutes in the glass a wonderfully complex nose emerges. Melon, citrus and peach aromas intermingle with yeasty, nutty notes and a mineral thread. The palate is smooth, rich and round with a superfine cut of acidity and a long, soft finish. 5 Stars; Ralph Kyte-Powell – Epicure Wine Style Magazine Spring 2008

Voyager Estate Margaret River Chardonnay 2006 ($42) screwcap: Restrained, classy, long and elegant. A gorgeous Margaret River chardonnay. It tastes of grapefruit and tangy, tart apples, chalk and milk and old yeast. There is an underpinning of smoky, sawdusty oak - but you have to look for it. This is all about juicy, elegant, controlled length. It will be better in a couple of years time. It's an excellent wine. Drink: 2010-2015. 94 points. Campbell Mattinson; The Wine Front

Voyager Estate Chardonnay 2006 $42; Under winemaker Cliff Royle, Voyager has consistently performed. From a very good white wine vintage, this has balanced power and concentrated grapefruit flavours with some cedary notes, impeccable balance and finesse, and a vibrant finish. Peter Forrestal; Qantas Magazine

There’s something special about Margaret River chardonnay and this is moreish as ever – more on the citrus spectrum especially grapefruit and lemon zest with some dried pear notes, it’s tight, minerally with fine acidity but still generous on the palate building with its nutty, leesy notes and all seamlessly blending into the subtle oak. Jane Faulkner, A2 – The Age