Pol Roger has for decades been one of Australia's (and my) favourite Champagne houses, its style as distinctive in its own way as, say, Bollinger is in its very different way. Equal parts of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier produce a delicate yet complex wine with ripe apple, citrus and brioche flavours in perfect balance, and neither needing nor repaying cellaring. Value plus. James Halliday

The Brut Réserve is a blend in equal parts of the three champenois grape varieties: pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay from 30 different crus.

The current release of Pol Roger's NV Brut Réserve is quite dramatic, bursting with aromas of mandarin oil, honeycomb, elderflower, fresh bread and musky peach. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, it's generous and textural, with a rich core of fruit, lively acids and a pillowy mousse. Date: Mar 2021; Rating: 92 Points; William Kelley; Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate

The wine is based on equal parts of pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay, and an all-important 25% of reserve. The maturation on lees is now four years; the wine has layered complexity, power and drive, building presence through the length of the palate and an aftertaste of grapefruit zest. Date: Nov 2023; Price: $120.00; Rating: 96 Points & Top 100 Wines for 2023; James Halliday Wine Companion