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Josh Raynolds, writing in Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, was effusive in his praise of the 1996 (disgorged in 2007): Pale gold with an energetic bead. Explosively perfumed aroma of pure blood orange, yellow apple and smoky minerals. Deep, palate-staining apple and orange flavours grab the palate and hold on tight, gaining serious stony bite with air. Strikingly pure and concentrated, featuring expansive citrus and orchard fruit flavours underscored by subtle smokiness and dusty citrus pith character. Already a knockout, this should be even better with another five or six years of ageing. Score: 93+ Points

Exotic aromas of tropical fruit -- pineapple, banana and coconut -- plus citrus peel and ginger make this a seductive bubbly. The texture is like silk, and the acidity is pronounced on the finish. This could use a few years to integrate. Best from 2009 through 2030. Score: 93 points. Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator

This will take a while to settle down, but when it does it will be smooth and gently spiced, with touches of honey. Give it time and it will reward you. The nose is very outgoing, with lots of yeast, citrus and nutty, sherried dough notes. Confusion of the good kind reigns on the palate, where minerals mix with yeast, almonds mix with touches of creamy of oak, and loads of tart, young citrus mix with vanilla spice. The 1990 and 1988 vintages are still young and bucking like a wild bronco. Regardless, this is a fun drink, worth the tariff. Something tells me I am underestimating this … it just may take another 10-20 years to find out. Brad Baker, Champagne Warrior

Marvellous richness in its ripe apricots, smoke, minerals, brioche, honey and sweet toasted oak, while maintaining the acidity and verve. The warm, toasty aromas and flavours are beautifully balanced in this extroverted, lively wine. This is terrific Champagne. 92/N-2016 Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate


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