Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2004
Disgorged at the end of 2010 with 7 years on the lees. ‘We don’t disgorge all the bottles at once, we disgorge for the need of the year after. The longer the aging on the lees, the longer it must be after disgorgement before release. The wine needs more time to rebalance’. Most of La Grande Dame is sourced from Veuve Clicquot’s own vineyards and in the 2004 it is 61% pinot noir and 39% chardonnay. Demarville states ‘for me the idea is to make a creamy and light pinot noir style wine, most of the time pinot Noir wines from Champagne are seen as heavy taste, concentrated, which is not what I am looking for in La Grande Dame. For me the Veuve Clicquot style of course comes from fresh fruit flavours, yes, it is complexity but it’s also very bright acidity, a lot of energy. If it is heavy it isn’t Veuve Clicquot’, in Demarville’s words.
My notes (MB) – Immediately ultra fresh citrus, orchard fruit, blossom aromas. Steely almost, chalk and talc perfume too. Laser-like in the palate, structured and tense, still coats the mouth but in gossamer-like delicacy, finishes very fine and long. Reveals the hand of heavier pinot noir in faint strawberry wafts in the bouquet and in slender chalky tannin, the residual presence of very faint red fruits with soft sweetness. A hand print in sand. Very precise, so much detail to investigate in the mouth, and most important, spectacularly refreshing. A very good LGD vintage. 95+ points; Mike Bennie; The Wine Front
True to form, Demarville presented this wine first, not last; I have never encountered this approach before, the rationale lying in the complete nature of the wine. A blend of 61% pinot noir and 39% chardonnay from grand cru vineyards, it was disgorged last year, the dosage 7g/l. The fine mousse helps generate beautiful mouthfeel to its array of rounded peach and apple fruit, contrasting notes of cream and mineral dancing through the long travel in the mouth. 96 points; Drink to 2020 - James Halliday, The Weekend Australian
Seven years on lees, with this bottle disgorged Nov/Dec 2010. A beautifully elegant style, especially in terms of the VC portfolio. Fresh and clean. Pears, wet stone, white peach, a little hint of brioche. Balance and intensity, freshness and power underneath. Bright acidity. Citrus and raspberry. Amazing complexity. Finesse. Depth and that ever-present power. Dominant pinot noir. 61% with 39% chardonnay, all Grand Cru. Dominique says the grapes used are selected for minerality and whiteness. He wants the smell of the chalk of the Grand Crus. They use mostly their own vineyards, with about 25% purchased from growers. Will get even better. Stunning. Ken Gargett
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