Christian Moreau Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru 2007
This is perhaps the most aromatically elegant wine in the range today with its airy, pure and layered nose of white flower, lemon peel, hint of wood spice, white peach and oyster shell nuances that seem even stronger on the impressively scaled broad-shouldered flavors that possess a beguiling texture as well as an almost painfully intense, palate staining finish that is bone dry. In a word, gorgeous. Tasted: Oct 01, 2008 Score: 92-95 Drink: 2013+ Comments: Don't miss! Issue 32 Allen Meadows; Burghound
This 12.5 ha domaine is directed by Christian Moreau and his son Fabiènne describe the 2007 vintage as one where the growing season was "jump started by a very not April that ultimately caused the vines to be almost one month in advance of their normal development. The summer however was not pretty and we had a bit of hail damage in Vaillons as it hit one side of the vineyard but other than that, we were fortunate. We began picking on the 8th of September, which is earlier than some but it's due to the fact that we have mostly old vines that naturally regulate yields and tend to be ready to pick 4 to 5 days earlier than young vines. We had less yield than we had in 2004 with good sugars as there was very little chaptalization. The malos were very long as there was quite a bit of malic acidity but long malos are generally a good sign as the wines are full of gas and thus protected. As to the wines themselves, they're like slightly richer 2004s with excellent transparency, balance and plenty of energy. Our general policy is not to stir the lees though we will upon occasion. In the case of 2007 we felt that the wines were naturally rich enough and thus we did no lees stirring at all". I have said it before but it bears repeating: the quality here is so good that Chablis now has, along with Domaine William Fèvre, another leading light to add to the region's traditional stars of Raveneau and Dauvissat.
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