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Having reviewed the Polish Hill River twin of this wine back in May, I've not had the pleasure to taste it again since, but recall it with sufficient joy to suggest the gap between these two wines has rarely been wider. Where that had all the gentle, comforting tropical fruits the very old rocks of Polish Valley offer in the best years, this dude, from the calcrete and terra rosa of Watervale, is pure unblemished austerity. 

It's all Granny smith and Nashi pear juice and crunch, with a lineal acid structure that takes no prisoners. In the very long term - like fifteen years - it'll become an elegant and winsome thing for the hardcore Riesling aficionado. Right now, it's a testy bridge too far for the serious clarified cider perve who's intending to find their way into a new level of gastronomic intelligence. But cross that bridge happily, and you're a goner: a Riesling obsessive for life. Elegant, tight, crunchy, unforgiving and bracing. The wine I mean. But watch yourself! Fresh Coffin Bay oysters please. Rating: 93++ Points Phillip White

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