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Mount Mary is one of the great small wineries of Australia, established by Dr John Middleton in 1972. Production is tiny. Mount Mary is noted for both the character and high quality of its wines. Since the first vintage in 1976, it has established itself as one of Australia's most highly regarded producers, commanding a mythical status among wine collectors. The vineyard faces due north and captures optimum sunlight during the growing season. The purity of fruit, poise and structure of Quintet, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot blend, epitomises the estate. It resonates with individuality of place and Dr John’s fastidious respect for the landscape. Mount Mary has continued to take great steps forward while staying true to the vision of Dr John, whose son David oversees the business while grandson Sam Middleton has taken on the winemaking mantle with aplomb.

Gleaming straw-green; a patrician of barrel-fermented chardonnays that has long since stood proud in the Mount Mary pantheon; fruit, oak and acidity are fused so tightly together deconstruction isn't possible and, in any event, would be irrelevant. Great Yarra Valley chardonnay, great length. Drink By: 2030; Price: $105.00; Alcohol: 13.3%; Rating: 97 Points & Special Value Star; James Halliday; Wine Companion

The style hasn’t changed much over the years, outside of the odd tweak, and nor has the quality. First sip, glass down, brilliant. Dive in for a second look and it’s all confirmed. This is another stellar chardonnay release from Mount Mary. It’s neither new nor old school: it just is what it is. It tastes of grapefruit and spice, white peach and chalk, toasty oak and spent matchsticks. But mostly it just presents as one; as an elegant, persistent expression of ripe, zippy fruit. Everything here is in glorious shape. Drink : 2018 - 2023; Rated : 96 Points; Campbell Mattinson


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