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Two years ageing in over four miles of cellars, under the Cellar Master's expert eye, provide the essential components for perfect maturation. A brilliant and clear wine, straw coloured with hints of amber. Lively with a fine and persistent bead. The impression is one of vitality and scents of spring mixed with a touch of 'toast' and honey. A palate of ripe fruit and citrus hints creates a wine that is full, fruity and light.

A primary and lively Lanson with a fresh citrus fruit profile and tight malic acid structure. It upholds great purity of lemon juice through a focused palate, finishing long and honed, with mineral expression and notes of nougat. A standout bargain among the readily available champagnes, even at full price, but watch out for specials. Price: $50. Rating: 93/100. Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2012-2013

Lanson Black Label Brut NV, $71; Flinty, smoky and grilled nut smelling, with cherry pit and marzipan; fruit cake like. Tight and nutty in the mouth, with lemon peel, black cherry and complex Parmesan lees characters. A long, lingering, pithy finish. First class medium bodied Champagne. Ralph Kyte-Powell, The Age

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