Heritiers des Comtes Lafon Macon-Milly-Lamartine Clos du Four 2006
Dominique Lafon reaffirmed what he has said from the very beginning, which is that "our vineyards are adapting very well to our biodynamic viticultural philosophy and after the last few years of putting various programs in place, the vines clearly are moving out of the transitionary phase. I'm very excited by this because it means that we should see even better fruit quality in the years ahead. As to 2006, it's definitely a very ripe year and the date of the harvest was even more important than it usually is. I waited until September 15th to begin the harvest, bringing in yields of 50 to 60 hl/ha and the sugars were sufficient that there was no chaptalization. Acidities were not as high as I like them however and while I didn't correct the acidities, I did block half the malos in some wines. Overall, 2006 is a nice if not a great vintage but because our fruit quality keeps climbing, we get a little better each vintage, or at least that's my impression." As is often the case chez Lafon, some of the malos were extremely long and slow and thus the Maranges was not rated.
The recent malos is evident as the nose is quite reduced but the racy, pure, intense and stony middle weight flavors are impressively detailed and the energetic finish also brims with an intense minerality. This seems most promising and it could very well be Lafon's best 2006. Tasted: Oct 01, 2007 Score: 88-91 Drink: 2009+ Comments: Outstanding! Top value Issue 28 Allen Meadows; Burghound
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