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Farr Rising is already right up there when it comes to quality and excitement. The wines could barely boast better pedigree, with Nick Farr at the helm and impeccable fruit sources. These range from Pinot, Shiraz and Chardonnay grapes from the Farrs' own 2002 plantings to 35-year-old vines from 10km further down the Moorabool valley. Made in an earlier-drinking style than some of the By Farr range, the Farr Rising wines often go toe-to-toe with their illustrious label-mates. They represent some of the best-value terroir-driven wines available.

The Farr Rising pinot vineyard was planted in 2001 using a large mixture of rootstocks, but only three clones—MV6, 114 and 115. It is a very exposed and hungry north-facing slope, consisting of grey sandy loam mixed with an ironstone pebble (buckshot) at the top. This leads into black volcanic soil over limestone at the bottom of the vineyard.

The fruit is hand harvested, and then sorted in the vineyard. The fruit is fermented in an open-top fermenter, and an average 60 to 70 per cent of it is destemmed. The wine is placed in 20 to 30 per cent new Allier barrels by gravity. It is racked by gas after secondary fermentation, then again at 18 months to be bottled. Over time, the site has shown that it can certainly stand up to its bigger brothers.

The wine typically shows a soft perfumed nose, which begins to build. The palate has sweetness, followed by mineral overtones enhanced by toasty oak, and firm flavours with a long and savoury finish. This is a gem of a wine, with ageing potential of five to eight years from most vintages.

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