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Given land prices in Burgundy today, the creation of a fine domaine without benefit of inheritance seems almost impossible. Almost. Jacques Seysses managed, beginning in the mid 1960's, and today this Morey based domain has enviable 12ha, including parcels in 5 Grand Crus. Seysses doesn't use press-wines, keeps the fermentation and cuvasion relatively cool, and racks as often as necessary in order to get rid of savoury flavours - yet he does (like his friend Aubert de Villaine at DRC) use all the stems and he also uses new, lightly toasted wood. The result is often wine of relatively pale colour and soft texture, yet great depth, fruit and refinement.

Here there is a completely different aromatic profile with markedly more spice elements present that add breadth and a certain elegance to the primarily red and black pinot fruit nose though there are background hints of Asian-style tea, violet and lilac. I like the mouth feel to the well-delineated, intense and mineral-driven medium weight flavors that possess a saline character on the solidly complex and well-balanced if mildly austere finale. This is more forward than usual and should be mature, or close to it, after only 7 to 10 years. Score: 91 Points; Tasted: Jan 2016; Drink: 2021+; Issue: 61; Allen Meadows - Burghound


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