Dujac Gevrey Chambertin Aux Combottes 1er Cru 2013
Given land prices in Burgundy today, the creation of a fine domaine without benefit of inheritance seems almost impossible. Almost. Jacques Seysses managed, beginning in the mid 1960's, and today this Morey based domain has enviable 12ha, including parcels in 5 Grand Crus. Seysses doesn't use press-wines, keeps the fermentation and cuvasion relatively cool, and racks as often as necessary in order to get rid of savoury flavours - yet he does (like his friend Aubert de Villaine at DRC) use all the stems and he also uses new, lightly toasted wood. The result is often wine of relatively pale colour and soft texture, yet great depth, fruit and refinement.
A discreet application of wood frames the fresh, cool and relatively airy aromas of high-toned cherry, pomegranate and ample floral scents. There is a sleek mouth feel to the utterly delicious and lightly mineral-inflected middle weight flavors that retain a lovely sense of underlying tension and fine delineation on the balanced, long and solidly persistent if presently linear finish that my score assumes will flesh out with bottle age. Score: 91 Points; Tasted: Jan 2016; Drink: 2023+; Issue: 61; Allen Meadows - Burghound
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