Dujac Fils et Père Morey St Denis 2013
Given land prices in Burgundy today, the creation of a fine domaine without benefit of inheritance seems almost impossible. Almost. Jacques Seysses managed, beginning in the mid 1960's, and today this Morey based domain has enviable 12ha, including parcels in 5 Grand Crus. Seysses doesn't use press-wines, keeps the fermentation and cuvasion relatively cool, and racks as often as necessary in order to get rid of savoury flavours - yet he does (like his friend Aubert de Villaine at DRC) use all the stems and he also uses new, lightly toasted wood. The result is often wine of relatively pale colour and soft texture, yet great depth, fruit and refinement.
There is notably better complexity to the floral-infused mix of dark currant, plum and sandalwood scents. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the delicious and lightly mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that terminate in a solidly complex finale. I like the polished mouth feel and this should both drink well young but also reward a few years of cellaring too. Score: 88-91 Points; Tasted: Jan 2015; Drink: 2020+; Issue: 57; Allen Meadows - Burghound
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