Given land prices in Burgundy today, the creation of a fine domaine without benefit of inheritance seems almost impossible. Almost. Jacques Seysses managed, beginning in the mid 1960's, and today this Morey based domain has enviable 12ha, including parcels in 5 Grand Crus. Seysses doesn't use press-wines, keeps the fermentation and cuvasion relatively cool, and racks as often as necessary in order to get rid of savoury flavours - yet he does (like his friend Aubert de Villaine at DRC) use all the stems and he also uses new, lightly toasted wood. The result is often wine of relatively pale colour and soft texture, yet great depth, fruit and refinement.
This is both more aromatically restrained and more elegant than the Clos de la Roche with its reluctant nose of rose petal, spiced tea and red and dark berry fruit aromas. There is a really lovely mouth feel to the refined middle weight flavors that exude a discreet bead of minerality that adds a bit of lift to the intense, balanced, focused and beautifully balanced finish. Textbook Clos St. Denis. Score: 92-95 Points; Tasted: Jan 2015; Drink: 2025+; Issue: 57; Allen Meadows - Burghound
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