Given land prices in Burgundy today, the creation of a fine domaine without benefit of inheritance seems almost impossible. Almost. Jacques Seysses managed, beginning in the mid 1960's, and today this Morey based domain has enviable 12ha, including parcels in 5 Grand Crus. Seysses doesn't use press-wines, keeps the fermentation and cuvasion relatively cool, and racks as often as necessary in order to get rid of savoury flavours - yet he does (like his friend Aubert de Villaine at DRC) use all the stems and he also uses new, lightly toasted wood. The result is often wine of relatively pale colour and soft texture, yet great depth, fruit and refinement.
Reduction. This possesses a beguiling mouth feel with its super fine-grained tannins and wonderful purity of expression exhibited by the palate coating medium weight flavors that offer a spicy inner mouth perfume, all wrapped in a harmonious, balanced and persistent finish. This is textbook Clos St. Denis. 92-95 pts, Allen Meadows, Burghound Issue 53
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