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Dr Loosen has been in the same family for more than 200 years and its present guardian, Ernst Loosen, is one of the great characters of the wine world. He assumed ownership of the estate in 1988 and immediately realised that, with ungrafted vines averaging 70 years of age, in some of Germany's best-rated vineyards, gave him the raw materials to create stunningly intense, world-class wines. To achieve this, he dramatically reduced his crop size and stopped all chemical fertilisation, preferring only moderate use of organic fertilisers. And, most importantly, he turned to gentler cellar practices that allow the wine to develop its full potential with a minimum of handling and technological meddling.

Always close to the quality of the Wehlener, its bouquet is highly floral, with citrus and white flowers to the fore. Varietal fruit, residual sugar and acidity provide a three-way burst of sublime freshness and coherence. Screwcap. Drink by: 2030; Price: $40.00; Alcohol: 7.5%; Rating: 95 Points; James Halliday; The Weekend Australian

The 2015er Bernkasteler Lay Kabinett was made with fruit harvested at a modest 82° Oechsle. It offers a gorgeous nose of fresh herbs, white peach and spices. The wine dances on the palate, with good presence and elegance. The finish is airy and vibrant. This is a deliciously well-made Kabinett 2025-2035. Rating: 91 Points; Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines

Screwcap here. The Bernkasteler Lay is a magnificent site just near to the Loosen estate home. Looks impressive from the road, at least. It’s known for its slate-rich soils. This wine is the neck oil specialist from Loosen. The wine for wine bars first pour on hot days. Man, dangerously drinkable. Loads of texture, light on flavour, touch of sweetness, fine zingy spritz (at first). All adds up to watch this bottle disappear like magic. It’s, of course, wonderfully perfumed with citrus, Asian spice, wet slate character, the palate not too dissimilar but with a squeeze of tart grapefruit juice for good measure. It’s quite rich its fleshiness but keeps this light, lacy appeal. Brilliant drinking. Alcohol: 7.5%; Price: $40; Closure: Screwcap; Drink: 2017-2022; Rated: 91 Points; Mike Bennie; The Wine Front



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