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Dr Loosen has been in the same family for more than 200 years and its present guardian, Ernst Loosen, is one of the great characters of the wine world. He assumed ownership of the estate in 1988 and immediately realised that, with ungrafted vines averaging 70 years of age, in some of Germany's best-rated vineyards, gave him the raw materials to create stunningly intense, world-class wines. To achieve this, he dramatically reduced his crop size and stopped all chemical fertilisation, preferring only moderate use of organic fertilisers. And, most importantly, he turned to gentler cellar practices that allow the wine to develop its full potential with a minimum of handling and technological meddling.

The 2015er Bernkasteler Lay Kabinett was made with fruit harvested at a modest 82° Oechsle. It offers a gorgeous nose of fresh herbs, white peach and spices. The wine dances on the palate, with good presence and elegance. The finish is airy and vibrant. This is a deliciously well-made Kabinett 2025-2035. Rating: 91 Points; Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines

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