Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett 2012
Helmut Dönnhoff and son Cornelius make the best wines in the Nahe region and some of the finest anywhere in the world. They are sheer perfection in their elegantly defined structure and flawless harmony. These wines are on a par with the best of Germany in a very unique way: the sweet wines rival those of Prüm, Loosen and Egon Müller and the dry wines are mentioned in the same breath as luminaries such as Wittmann and Weil. Very few - if any - have this degree of versatility.
Steep, southeast-facing slope with grey clay slate soil. The morning sun dries the grapes, keeping them healthy; while the afternoon sun is not so direct, allowing the grapes to ripen for a very long time without becoming overripe. A perfect vineyard for Kabinett wines! The vines are 25 to 30 years old and yield about 50hl/ha. 100% selective hand harvest. Fermented and matured in stainless steel vats and large oak barrels. This is a Riesling with well-defined, spicy fruit, very elegant with a wonderful balance between fine fruit sweetness and firm acidity.
This vineyard is based on purple slate soils which adds an intriguing salty character to this Kabinett. The aromatics are deep and there is a mineral pedigree. When you take a sip, it is quite soft in the mouth with a watery lightness which makes the stone, lime and nectarine flavours even more beguiling. Now - 2018. Berry Bros
Donnhoff at his best; the sweetness is of passing relevance; it’s fruit-based, of course, with lime juice to the fore, but once the mid-palate is reached, sparkling acidity takes hold. The wine has amazing elegance and effortless length. Rating: 96 points; drink to 2025; 9.5% alc; screwcap; $43; James Halliday
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