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Dominique Piron’s family history in Beaujolais spans more than four centuries, with his oldest known ancestor born in Morgon in 1590. Since then, there have been 14 generations of winegrowers in the family. Dominique seeks to create characterful terroir wines that are fruity, subtle and elegant from his sloping vineyards of fragmented granite and schist. These are wines that showed us what we’d long been looking for from Beaujolais but had almost given up hope of finding. 

Morgon is perhaps my favourite of the Beaujolais crus. The big boy is in the kitchen. Dark cherries, raspberries, liquorice and sniff of spiced wood. Fleshy, open weave tannin, dark raspberry, cherry, depth and derring-do, crisp strawberry acidity, touch of meaty gamey stuff too. The finish is pretty long, closing with a satisfying chomp of tannin. Vigorous. Alcohol: 13.5%; Price: $42; Closure: Cork; Drink: 2018-2028; Rated: 93 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front

A gruffer, stonier, less evidently fruity scent than many of its peers, though warm, vivid red fruits are nonetheless in evidence. On the palate, this is a dense, close-grained and impressively structured – textured, grippy, warm, almost meaty, packed with an energy which comes from fruit but which seems to express so much more than fruit. Rating: 92 Points; Andrew Jefford; Decanter

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