Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin 2007
From 40 year old vines. “Also quite dark. Here the nose is further along with an expressive, earthy and very Gevrey-like dark berry fruit nose that offers hints of minerality and underbrush, both of which are picked up by the fresh, delicious and round medium-bodied flavors that possess lovely balance and length. This is actually quite pretty with an attractive personality and solid typicity.” Drink 2012+, 87-89 Points, Allen Meadows, Burghound Issue 33 Jan 2009
The late Denis Mortet’s son Arnaud has now taken over completely the responsibility for the vines and winemaking. The young Mortet is already renowned in Burgundy for the quality of his vineyard work and grower after grower spoke admiringly of how Arnaud has picked up right where his father left off. I should add that compliments from colleagues when it concerns vineyard work are given sparingly in Burgundy but the two domaines that are routinely mentioned are Mortet and Groffier… Mortet, who had already been vinifying under his father's tutelage, has begun to change the approach slightly while careful not to suggest that his father's approach was wrong, noting that "I want more elegance and finesse coupled with less extraction. The 2007 vintage gave us round wines and fine tannins and I reasoned that there was no reason to fight what Mother Nature had given us. So, I did a relatively soft vinification and while I had already reduced the amount of new wood in 2006, I reduced it again in 2007 and may do so again in 2008. Overall, the 2007s are wines of elegance and terroir plus they are very pinot in basic character." Mortet explained that the malos were very long in 2007 and many wines had only just finished. This, coupled with the reduction in new wood [new wood is more porous, permitting a better external exchange of oxygen and thus less reduction], explicates why many of the wines display various stages of reduction. The Mortet '07s came in at or above my predicted ranges and the sweet spot is the group of Gevrey 1ers as they are really lovely wines.
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