Although Mortet's 0.32-hectares of vines are located in the lower part of this historic vineyard, they are some of the oldest (more than 60 years), most fastidiously manicured vines in the entire Clos. Chateau de La Tour's meticulous owner François Labet, a straight shooter who only pays a compliment when he genuinely feels it is deserved, told us that each year this wine comes up at or near the top of the annual Vougeot growers' comparative tasting. Mortet produces a supremely fine Clos de Vougeot. It is a wine of undeniable power and depth yet with remarkably plump tannins, and plenty of suave, ripe dark cherry and spice fruit generosity to balance the intense minerality on offer.
This is relatively expressive for a young Clos de Vougeot with an expansive nose of ripe red berry fruit and warm soil tones that are in keeping with the rich, full, sweet and powerful broad-shouldered flavors that possess good ripeness and traces of the classic youthful austerity of Clos de Vougeot. Very solid if not truly knockout quality here. Rating: 92 Points; Tasted: Jan 2009; Drink: 2016+; Issue: 33; Allen Meadows - Burghound
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