Comte Georges de Vogue Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2006
This too is quite restrained with almost exclusively red berry fruit and intense floral aromas that are high-toned and pure while complementing the supple, textured, dusty and extremely precise flavors that exude a quiet power on the brooding and linear finish that delivers outstanding length. This will require every bit of a decade to resolve the very firm structure. Tasted: Jan 01, 2008 Score: 90-93 Drink: 2016+ Issue 29 Allen Meadows; Burghound
The always thoughtful enologist François Millet called 2006 a "very seductive vintage. The wines all have concentrated extract of fruit noses and a beguiling freshness which when coupled with the excellent depth make for some very attractive wines, especially since the flavors are simultaneously frank and generous. The growing season was up and down as July was hotter than it was in 2003 yet that was rapidly replaced but a cool and wet August, which delayed maturities as much as July advanced them. September was quite warm as well with a vent du sud (south wind) drying out the vineyards and concentrating the berries. We began picking on September 21st and really didn't have any more sorting working than is typical here. Sugars were quite strong at between 12 and 13% and as the numbers suggest, the grapes really had no problems getting ripe. Overall, 2006 is a lovely vintage that will age more rapidly than the more structured, powerful and substantial 2005s." And speaking of the de Vogüé '05s, as my scores last year suggested, they truly are magnificent wines, fulfilling in bottle all of the promise they displayed from cask. And yes, the Musigny is potentially the greatest vintage for this fabled wine since at least the 1993 and in my view, probably the 1949, which obviously is a bold statement but I can't think of another one that rivals the '05. Time will tell of course and it's best to remain modest when predicting greatness in the young but if you see it at a price that looks attractive, I wouldn't give it much thought but just buy it. For what it's worth, there are more than 50 vintages reviewed of this wine in the database and very few come close.
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