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French » Chablis »

Christian Moreau Chablis Valmur Grand Cru 2008

A discreet touch of wood sets off pure and quite cool green fruit laced with abundant notes of wet stone and tidal pool hints that are also picked up by the textured, intense and precise flavors brimming with extract on the precise and energetic finish that is at once elegant yet displays the hallmark Valmur austerity. This is impressive. Tasted: Oct 01, 2009; Score: 92-94; Drink: 2014+ Comments: Don't miss! Issue 36; Allen Meadows; Burghound

This 12.5 ha domaine is directed by Christian Moreau and his son Fabiènne describe the 2007 vintage as one where the growing season was "jump started by a very not April that ultimately caused the vines to be almost one month in advance of their normal development. The summer however was not pretty and we had a bit of hail damage in Vaillons as it hit one side of the vineyard but other than that, we were fortunate. We began picking on the 8th of September, which is earlier than some but it's due to the fact that we have mostly old vines that naturally regulate yields and tend to be ready to pick 4 to 5 days earlier than young vines. We had less yield than we had in 2004 with good sugars as there was very little chaptalization. The malos were very long as there was quite a bit of malic acidity but long malos are generally a good sign as the wines are full of gas and thus protected. As to the wines themselves, they're like slightly richer 2004s with excellent transparency, balance and plenty of energy. Our general policy is not to stir the lees though we will upon occasion. In the case of 2007 we felt that the wines were naturally rich enough and thus we did no lees stirring at all". I have said it before but it bears repeating: the quality here is so good that Chablis now has, along with Domaine William Fèvre, another leading light to add to the region's traditional stars of Raveneau and Dauvissat.