Christian Moreau Chablis Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos Grand Cru 2011
This 12.5 ha domaine is directed by Christian Moreau and his son Fabien, who describe the 2011 vintage as "one that gave us very concentrated and super rich wines, which is the good part. The bad part is that the harvest was tiny thanks to a combination of spring frosts, a poor flowering and severe August heat. We were down some 30% on the right bank where most of our vineyards are situated. Even so the left bank wasn't all that much better so while the quality of 2012 is very good there won't be a lot of it. We elected to begin picking on the 26th of September and brought in very clean fruit that possessed potential alcohols in the 12.5 to 13.2% range. That is plenty for our style of wine and we chaptalized nothing, not even the Petit Chablis. The post-malo pHs were between 3.2 and 3.25, which again is good if not absolutely textbook. Overall, we like the vintage as the wines are succulent and approachable yet retain plenty of true Chablis character.
There is a bit more wood in evidence compared to the "regular" Les Clos cuvée though not so much that it restrains one's ability to appreciate the otherwise fresh, cool and classic Chablis-suffused nose. There is excellent concentration to the powerful and extract-rich big-bodied flavors that possess an almost chewy texture before terminating in a gorgeously long, dry and well-balanced finish. In much the same fashion as 2012, this is bigger and more robust than the regular Les Clos though it will also require up to a decade to be at its best. Score: 93; Tasted: Oct 15, 2013; Drink: 2017+; Issue: 52; Allan Meadows - Burghound
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