Along with Quinta Dos Roques Alvaro Castro’s two quintas: Pellada and Saes are the quality-style leaders of the Dão. Alvaro releases wines eponymously and using either of the two Quinta names.

Blended from both Quintas. Aromatics of plum spice, black cherry, gamey meats and woodsmoke. Serious palate has a chocolatey, spicy edge. It is structured and savoury with taut berry and black fruits with good acidity. There’s tobacco and cane characters (from the Touriga), red fruits from Alfrocheiro, sage-brush and dark, sweet spices. Quite firm and a good food wine. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro and Tinta Roriz, 15% of which comes from very old vines. It is aged 12 months in second-use oak. Pape, below, is its great, graceful big sister.

Along with Quinta Dos Roques Alvaro Castro’s two quintas: Pellada and Saes are the quality-style leaders of the Dão. Alvaro releases wines eponymously and using either of the two Quinta names.

Blended from both Quintas. Aromatics of plum spice, black cherry, gamey meats and woodsmoke. Serious palate has a chocolatey, spicy edge. It is structured and savoury with taut berry and black fruits with good acidity. There’s tobacco and cane characters (from the Touriga), red fruits from Alfrocheiro, sage-brush and dark, sweet spices. Quite firm and a good food wine. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro and Tinta Roriz, 15% of which comes from very old vines. It is aged 12 months in second-use oak. Pape, below, is its great, graceful big sister.

Without doubt, one of the leading modern Sinqle Quinta producers (Portuguese producer of the year in 2003). Spectacular site! Winemaking directed by Aussie Dominic Morris. Lagares, thankfully, are retained, augmented by the modern twist of temperature control.

Dark blackberry nose with fine (French?) oak characters. The palate is warm medium-full bodied with the oak becoming more prevalent as the palate builds. Good firm tannin before a long drying finish. Very young nose, well be excellent or better when fully mature. 88/100 Very Good Murray Almond, StarPanel

Finally, a new red from one of the Douro Boys: Miguel Roquette, owner of Quinta do Crasto. I guess in my mind, I was hoping for the price of the regular Crasto Douro red to come down, but rather, we have a new wine, Flor de Crasto 2004, that was built for early drinking. The tannins are softer, the fruit a bit more forward, but it's still the Douro. The nose is an impressive sort of fragrance you might get if you cross a sangiovese with a malbec. On the palate it's a dusty, earthy, medium-bodied red wine full of vim and vigour, not to mention refreshing acidity. Enjoy all winter with grilled meats, stews or wherever the word rustic is used. Good value. Anthony Gismondi; www.gismondionwine.com

Fonseca belongs in the first rank of Vintage Port houses. It is recognised for the stylistic consistency of its wines which have been made by five generations of the same family since the firm’s foundation in 1822. Fonseca Vintage Ports are noted for their expressive, luscious fruitiness, which develops great opulence and complexity with age, as well as a voluptuous roundness on the palate supported by velvety mouth-filling tannins.

The bouquet is deep, discreet and bottomless, as it offers up a still very young mélange of black plums, licorice, black cherries, candied violets, discreet herb tones, complex soil nuances, woodsmoke, cedar and very mild notes of black pepper.”“The bouquet is deep, discreet and bottomless, as it offers up a still very young mélange of black plums, licorice, black cherries, candied violets, discreet herb tones, complex soil nuances, woodsmoke, cedar and very mild notes of black pepper. With time this will clearly be a bouquet of profound complexity, though today this is hidden a bit by the wine’s puppy fat of sappy fruit. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and absolutely seamless, with a rock solid core of fruit, ripe, firm tannins, great focus and grip and the vintage’s tangy acids adding a rapier-like quality to the endless finish. This is profound wine in the making, and it will take its place very near the top of the list of the many legendary Fonsecas produced in the last century. A great, great wine. 2035-2150. Score 97+; John Gillman, A view from the cellar, August 2009

A limpid purple garnet core. The nose is quintessential Fonseca, like a riotous party reaching its crescendo in the glass. Macerated black cherries, eau-de-vie, damson, fig and a touch of Seville orange. Then what is fascinating is that the uproar dies down with aeration, becomes more focused...as if the host has asked everyone to quieten down. The palate is powerful and spicy on the entry, sweet ripe black berried fruits, a touch of spice, fig and apricot, lovely cohesion and weight building towards a deeply joyous finish that lacquers the mouth in port-like reverie. Perhaps more approachable than the 2000 or the 2003 at this stage, this is a marvellous Fonseca. Score 96 Points; Neal Martin, Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate

Dense and serious, a powerful vintage, as would be expected from Fonseca. The whole emphasis of the wine pushes the tannins forward, but this structure is based on black plums with dark fruit skins and a solid, chunky character. The finish is juicy and bold. 96 Points; Wine Enthusiast

The Fonseca 2007 is four-square on the palate with round tannins and big spicy, chocolate, licorice, black cherry, black tea, floral flavours. There is excellent depth, fruit, structure and acidity in what is a bold Fonseca that will age well and maintain its fruit for decades. A dense succulent port for the ages. Anthony Gismondi, Wine Access Magazine, November 2009

Cooked raspberry, with hints of lemon peel and leaf. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with a beautiful density and a sweet fruity and tannic aftertaste. Balanced yet muscular. A little disappointing, but clearly outstanding.”Score: 92-95; James Suckling, Wine Spectator, May 2009

Fonseca belongs in the first rank of Vintage Port houses. It is recognised for the stylistic consistency of its wines which have been made by five generations of the same family since the firm’s foundation in 1822. Fonseca Vintage Ports are noted for their expressive, luscious fruitiness, which develops great opulence and complexity with age, as well as a voluptuous roundness on the palate supported by velvety mouth-filling tannins.

The bouquet is deep, discreet and bottomless, as it offers up a still very young mélange of black plums, licorice, black cherries, candied violets, discreet herb tones, complex soil nuances, woodsmoke, cedar and very mild notes of black pepper.”“The bouquet is deep, discreet and bottomless, as it offers up a still very young mélange of black plums, licorice, black cherries, candied violets, discreet herb tones, complex soil nuances, woodsmoke, cedar and very mild notes of black pepper. With time this will clearly be a bouquet of profound complexity, though today this is hidden a bit by the wine’s puppy fat of sappy fruit. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and absolutely seamless, with a rock solid core of fruit, ripe, firm tannins, great focus and grip and the vintage’s tangy acids adding a rapier-like quality to the endless finish. This is profound wine in the making, and it will take its place very near the top of the list of the many legendary Fonsecas produced in the last century. A great, great wine. 2035-2150. Score 97+; John Gillman, A view from the cellar, August 2009

A limpid purple garnet core. The nose is quintessential Fonseca, like a riotous party reaching its crescendo in the glass. Macerated black cherries, eau-de-vie, damson, fig and a touch of Seville orange. Then what is fascinating is that the uproar dies down with aeration, becomes more focused...as if the host has asked everyone to quieten down. The palate is powerful and spicy on the entry, sweet ripe black berried fruits, a touch of spice, fig and apricot, lovely cohesion and weight building towards a deeply joyous finish that lacquers the mouth in port-like reverie. Perhaps more approachable than the 2000 or the 2003 at this stage, this is a marvellous Fonseca. Score 96 Points; Neal Martin, Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate

Dense and serious, a powerful vintage, as would be expected from Fonseca. The whole emphasis of the wine pushes the tannins forward, but this structure is based on black plums with dark fruit skins and a solid, chunky character. The finish is juicy and bold. 96 Points; Wine Enthusiast

The Fonseca 2007 is four-square on the palate with round tannins and big spicy, chocolate, licorice, black cherry, black tea, floral flavours. There is excellent depth, fruit, structure and acidity in what is a bold Fonseca that will age well and maintain its fruit for decades. A dense succulent port for the ages. Anthony Gismondi, Wine Access Magazine, November 2009

Cooked raspberry, with hints of lemon peel and leaf. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with a beautiful density and a sweet fruity and tannic aftertaste. Balanced yet muscular. A little disappointing, but clearly outstanding.”Score: 92-95; James Suckling, Wine Spectator, May 2009

Luis Pato was responsible for instituting the practises of temperature controlled fermentation and de-stemming of Baga, but since 1999 releases his wines under the regional name Beiras, avoiding the taint of antiquated practice and lack of foresight on the part of DO Bairrada. Determined ‘terroirist’ carefully dividing selections based on either sandy-clay or chalky-clay, and easily the star producer of the region.

90% of Baga grapes and 10% of Touriga Nacional, from vineyards planted in sandy soils, mainly, from young vineyards planted in chalky clay soils. Beaut wine in a pleasantly small way, with pronounced game and sourberry either side of cherry fruit. Light, fresh, pretty and savoury. Nice elegant round-finishing tannins and bright acidity (Baga can be notoriously tart/acidic).

Fermented without stems at 27ºC during two weeks in stainless steel vats. Matured in old used French casks and in some used American oak barrels. To be dished up with red meat, hunt meals and codfish. Serve at 16ºC.  Aging capacity of 10/15 years.

This is the first VP released under the Quinta do Noval label for several years and there are only twenty dozen available for Australia. While it may seem strange to compare the style of a Vintage Port to Burgundy; the same elegance, succulence and damn deliciousness of the finest 2007 red Burgundies can also be found here. I recall visiting Quinta do Noval in 2008 and tasting through the barrels samples of the 2007s, including Nacional. At Noval, the different grape varieties from the various parcels of the vineyard are vinified separately and then blended at the end. Without going in to too much detail, the wines blew me away for their freshness, elegance and sexy, silky textures. You could have drunk them then and there (and I certainly did not spit everything!)

The final result is now in bottle and it is as thrilling as young VP gets. It has certainly put on some weight since I saw it last but it remains “classic Noval” simply because it is so unbelievably refined, balanced and pure. In fact the finesse of the wine reminds me of Nacional (there is some Nacional fruit in there of-course). It will be an unusual VP in so far as it should drink well young but will also age for decades. The best of both worlds. This makes sense in the light of the growing season which was cooler (relatively speaking) and longer in the Douro, as it was for much of Europe. The cool nights enabled the grapes to retain freshness and ‘line’ while the dry, sunny days at the end of harvest allowed for an elongated “hang-time” and the accumulation of intense and complex flavours in the berries. Noval also engaged in a strict sorting of both grapes and finished wine with only the finest parcels ending up in the Noval VP. Bibendum

Again, very deep in colour, deep purple. The nose is deep and broody – you have to really stick your nose in the glass. But it has so much primal intensity: blackberry, raspberry, liquorice, fruitcake, a touch of Indian ink. Wonderful definition – great clarity here. The palate has a rounded, quite approachable texture, extremely pure with luscious black fruits entwined with white pepper, crème de menthe, damson and black plum. So harmonious towards the finish. Beautiful. 95+ points, Neal Martin, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

Impressive aromas of crushed blackberry, mineral and dried flowers. Intense and deep. Full-bodied, very sweet and dense on the palate, with big, round tannins and a long finish. 94-97/100 James Suckling, Wine Spectator, May 2009

One of the darkest of the 2007s. Limpid and luscious-looking, Very sweet and ripe with some spice - cinnamon? All-enveloping and one of the sleekest and smoothest in terms of texture. The acid and then tannins creep in on the finish but this is a bit of a standout in terms of its dry energetic finish. This gives the impression of polished leather - not one of the sweetest on the finish. A palate scrub of a wine. Distinctive. 18/20 Jancis Robinson MW, www.jancisrobinson.com , May 2009

An evocative mélange of sweetscented wild flowers, Rainier cherry, cocoa and cool eucalyptus pack a punch to the nose. A tale of two Ports: one side is soft and exudes feminine stylishness and immediate approachability, while the other is endowed with power and massively concentrated fruit. Rich and chewy, showcasing a sweet entry with black cherry, ripe plum and blackcurrant flavors, enhanced by an exemplary level of acidity. The persistent finish is a showstopper while the impressively firm grippy tannins show up in time for the curtain call, allowing this 2007 VP to age effortlessly for three decades minimum, and possibly five. But there’s no reason to wait as it shows lots of charm now, too. 6,500 cases produced (12 x 750s). Simply put, this is the best Warre’s Vintage Port I’ve ever had, at this early stage of its evolution Roy Hersh , For the Love of Port 01/11/2009

A floral wine, offering dusty tannins to go with its sweet crushed strawberry flavors. There are spice and black fig flavors as well as elegance - a sense of proper restraint just waiting to power out in maybe 10 years. At the moment, it is all fruit, but over time it will show more structure. Wine Enthusiast 01/10/2009

The first Warre's vintage to be made entirely from its own vineyards. Fine, fragrant, great aromatic purity yet restrained. Rich, full style, even fleshy. Not as big as some but fine and expressive. Lovely grip, with elegance and poise. Richard Mayson , Decanter Magazine 01/08/2009

Liquorice and richness on the nose. Lots of spice and sweetness and very complete. Perhaps the wine closest to classic vintage port of all the 42 wines tasted here. Biding its time, all in place. Not at all showy. Dry finish. Great balance and integration. Jancis Robinson , jancisrobinson.com 21/05/2009

Fresh, bright red fruit and a hint of Golden Delicious apple too. Full bodied but silky, showing preserved cherries and a bit of cream on the finish Richard Hemming , Jancis Robinson website 12/05/2009

Offers lovely perfumed aromas and beautiful raspberry and blackberry character, turning to tar, black truffle and wet earth. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with a balance of very chewy tannins and sugary fruit at the finish. This goes on and on. The great 1994 again? James Suckling , Wine Spectator 06/05/2009

Fathomless inky plum in appearance, this has instant appeal. The nose is richly concentrated with seductive old vine fruit lifted by fresh primary berry notes and fresh violets. The palate is similarly aromatic, lively with a gregarious personality which almost obscures really impressive underlying power. Corney & Barrow 01/05/2009

Violets and dried flowers overlay the black fruits on the nose. Blackcurrant and bramble underpinned by sloe give a seductive richness and this is emphasised by the dark chocolate and liquorice. The mid palate is dense packed with fruit power. The polished tannins all add to the seductive feel and the elegance of the finish. Derek Smedley, MW