The 2004 Sori San Lorenzo is a drop-dead gorgeous wine. It presents awesome balance, especially in the way it marries power with elegance. This is a remarkably refined and understated Sori San Lorenzo, with never-ending layers of dark raspberries, licorice, grilled herbs and tar that flow from its sumptuous frame. A dark, brooding beauty, it will require several additional years of bottle at a minimum, but those with the patience to wait will be amply rewarded. In most vintages I prefer the Sori Tildin, but in 2004 Sori San Lorenzo has a very slight edge over its sibling. It may very well be the finest Sori San Lorenzo since the legendary 1971. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Wine Advocate # 173 Oct 2007 Antonio Galloni 98 Drink 2014 - 2029

Angelo Gaja and long-time oenologist Guido Rivella produced some of the most monumental wines of their long, storied partnership in 2004. Although I admire Gaja’s wines, especially for their consistency, I rarely find them this emotionally moving and utterly profound. The stable weather and cool, tempering evenings towards the end of the growing season allowed Gaja and Rivella to harvest fairly late in 2004. I remember passing by Gaja’s Barbaresco vineyards in October of that year and seeing fruit still waiting to be picked long after most producers had already brought the fruit in. Gaja’s 2004s from Barbaresco are especially breathtaking for their clarity and precision. The wines also seem less internationally-styled than in the past. Readers fortunate enough to possess the means to acquire these wines won’t want to miss them! The 2003s from the Barolo zones of La Morra and Serralunga are also strong efforts considering the vintage. “Historically in Piedmont there has been an inverse relationship between quality and quantity. Great vintages like 1961 and 1989 were characterized by low yields,” says Gaja. “2004 is one of those rare vintages like 1964 and 1990 where quality is high even though yields were generous as well. I think 2004 is a very elegant vintage. It is much easier to achieve opulence in the wines, but finesse is always much more elusive.”

Gaja’s 2004 Sori Tildin floats on the palate. It is the most nuanced of these single-vineyard offerings, with gorgeous notes of tar, smoke, roses, violets, sweet toasted oak and earthiness that emerge from the glass in a counterpoint of sublime elegance and stunning purity. It possesses superb length and elegant, silky tannins to round out the finish. This extraordinary Sori Tildin will require at least a few years of bottle age, but it is destined to be one of the vintage’s legendary wines. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Wine Advocate # 173 Oct 2007 Antonio Galloni 97 Drink 2014 - 2024

Angelo Gaja and long-time oenologist Guido Rivella produced some of the most monumental wines of their long, storied partnership in 2004. Although I admire Gaja’s wines, especially for their consistency, I rarely find them this emotionally moving and utterly profound. The stable weather and cool, tempering evenings towards the end of the growing season allowed Gaja and Rivella to harvest fairly late in 2004. I remember passing by Gaja’s Barbaresco vineyards in October of that year and seeing fruit still waiting to be picked long after most producers had already brought the fruit in. Gaja’s 2004s from Barbaresco are especially breathtaking for their clarity and precision. The wines also seem less internationally-styled than in the past. Readers fortunate enough to possess the means to acquire these wines won’t want to miss them! The 2003s from the Barolo zones of La Morra and Serralunga are also strong efforts considering the vintage. “Historically in Piedmont there has been an inverse relationship between quality and quantity. Great vintages like 1961 and 1989 were characterized by low yields,” says Gaja. “2004 is one of those rare vintages like 1964 and 1990 where quality is high even though yields were generous as well. I think 2004 is a very elegant vintage. It is much easier to achieve opulence in the wines, but finesse is always much more elusive.”

Valentino Sciotti is involved with a number of wineries in Puglia, Campania (he is the man behind Vesevo) and his native Abruzzi. The Gran Sasso wines are made by young winemaker Marco Flacco and display a freshness and directness of fruit that is seldom found in this region.

Most Montepulciano at this price comes either from negociants buying bulk wines or from co-ops, neither of whom work as well or as closely with their growers as Valentino and his team. The grapes for this wine are grown in 15-20 year old vineyards in the production zones of Ortona, San Salvo and Pollutri.

Winter was cold and wet and the rain continued into the spring. Summer temperatures and conditions were normal, but a little rain at the beginning of July meant that good growers and winemakers such as Marco Flacco for Gran Sasso allowed the Montepulciano grapes to remain longer on the vine without shrivelling, resulting in soft, ripe tannins.

On arrival at the winery, the grapes were destemmed and crushed, then macerated and fermented at temperatures reaching 26-27°C for 15 days. The wine was then aged for five months in temperature controlled stainless steel until bottling.

This wine is deep ruby red in colour with garnet reflections. It is clean, fresh and plummy on the nose, rich, supple and accessible on the palate. It is balanced and full-bodied with good tannins. The fresh, primary fruit characters are maximised by the fact that it does not age in oak, making it approachable and ready to drink.

It's hard to find a sub-$10 wine with character but this is loaded with it, which makes this one of the bargains of the year. It smells of blood plums (pips and all), cherries, leather and tobacco. It's medium bodied, with nice flavours of cherries, plum, hazelnuts and dried herbs. In the mouth there's a fine tannic grip and juicy acid that lead to a nice herbal finish. Love a bargain? Ben Thomas, The Weekly Review

Yep, lovely wine, and a fine follow up last year’s release. Cherries, nuts, slightly floral with some sweet new leather and dried herb. Medium bodied, fresh and fruity with a lightly chalky tannic grip on the finish. Terrific weekday drinking…and not sweet or hot either. Slightly better than the 2008 (though I’d have to taste them side by side to be sure) which I scored at 89 points. Hmmm let’s make it 89.4 points then :-)Drink over the next couple of years.  Gary Walsh, The Wine Front

Interesting aromas of plums and minerals, with just a hint of black licorice. Medium- to full-bodied, with mineral and espresso character on the finish. Provocative yet subtle. Sangiovese. Best after 2005. 2,200 cases made. – James Suckling; Wine Spectator

Deep ruby red offering an intense and elegant fragrance with hints of violets, wild berries and spices. A dry, soft and harmonious flavour.

This delicious red wine from the very good 1994 vintage is a dark garnet in colour and is endowed with the full panoply of varietal aromas and flavours currants and wild cherries leather tobacco and game in a solid medium-bodied format. Robert Parker states " There are few men in Tuscan wine I admire more than Paolo De Marchi for me the number one producer in the region for the variety and consistent high quality of his wines. Drink now - 2012

A fairly deep colour to this super-Tuscan, tasted in its youth. From the outset the nose has plenty of bramble and berry fruit, together with smoky, tarry notes suggestive of depth and extract. Rich and velvety on the palate, although only medium-full bodied, and cut through with good acidity which is immediately apparent on entry. Plentiful dark fruits, good extract as the nose suggested, and ripe, supple but firm tannins. Strong finish, with a sweet, tannic edge, and a note of elegance. Decent length. 17+/20 The Wine Doctor

Isole e Olena is comprised of two farms, "Isole" and "Olena," purchased by the De Marchi family in the 1950s. The current manager, Paolo De Marchi (see photo), is the fourth generation of the De Marchi to make wine in Italy (the extended family also makes wine in Piedmonte). Paolo graduated from the University of Torino where he specialized in Oenology, and currently maintains relationships with the Oenology faculties of the Universities of Montpellier, Beaune, Torino, Geisenheim and UC Davis. He is among the most respected winemakers in the world. His early enthusiasm for "extra-Tuscan" grapes in Chianti has been tempered by his respect for the unique characteristics of Tuscany's indigenous Sangiovese. This is a demanding grape, difficult to ripen and requiring extraordinary work in the vineyards to insure high quality. Paolo still produces small amounts of wines from "international varieties," including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Chardonnay, but his Chianti Classico and Cepparello (100% Sangiovese), are his own, best contribution to Tuscan culture.

Wine Spectator 91/100

Butter and vanilla over bright damson and black cherry fruit, robust. Full and rich, packed with oak, acidity, youthful blackberry flavours, long, modern. Drink 2-10 years. Decanter 4/5

The estate's top bottling, the 2005 Cepparello, is another strong effort. Classy and elegant, it possesses well-delineated vibrant dark red fruit intermingled with toasted oak and minerals. It remains quite fresh and will require a few years of bottle age to develop its full range of aromas and flavors. That said, it is a smaller-scaled Cepparello that should mature earlier than the superb 2004. Cepparello is 100% Sangiovese aged in French oak. Once again, Paolo De Marchi has turned out a superlative wine. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. 92 points Antonio Galloni Wine Advocate # 177 Jun 2008

Isole e Olena Cepparello 2005: A rather high-toned character on the nose here, with a spirity and foxy edge. The palate has fruit, flesh and overall an attractive composition. There is a lot of good substance, with piles of ripe, chewy tannins and firm acidity. Very primary at present, with lots of flavour at first. This is brimming with potential and needs to be left alone for some time I think. 16.5-17.5+/20 (February 2009) The Wine Doctor

I remember visiting Paolo De Marchi, the charismatic owner/winemaker at Isole e Olena, nearly twenty years ago and I was completely smitten by his humility, incredible attention to detail and fabulously impressive wines.  He is a hero in the region and many young, talented winemakers have been lucky to work a vintage under his tutelage - something to boast about on one’s CV.  His Ceparello is one of the recognised, top flight Super Tuscans, but it is his estate Chianti which always gets me and the ‘07 is the most captivating, young vintage I can remember.  It’s crucial to concentrate all of your efforts on your ‘workhorse’ wine, not least because it is the most widely distributed.  I, however, cannot recall one which shines as brightly with its lustrous Sangiovese cocktail of fruit as this one.  Just about drinking, but with five to eight more great years ahead of it, this is a glorious autumnal rosso! Matthew Jukes

Cepparello is one of Italy’s best wines, but don’t miss out on the Chianti Classico from this estate, an archetypal example of the category. The 2007 is brimming with red berry and sour red cherry flavors, and its creamy fruit and smooth tannins are typical of this warmer vintage. Stephen Tanzer

The 2007 Chianti Classico has all the gloss, elegance and balance of the showy 2007 vintage. We enjoyed the wine direct from bottle (no decanter on hand) and were immediately struck by the depth of perfumed fruit, sweet herbs and other subtle aromas. The mouthfeel was plush and of course there was the trademark excellent persistence and long, refined finish apparent in all of Paolo’s wines. As always, this is an ebullient Chianti with plenty of panache. It’s absolutely no surprise whatsoever that it amongst one of the most sort after wines for any restaurant with fine Italian cuisine at its core. It will offer the most enjoyable drinking at any dinner table. 2010 – 2020

The inky-colored 2003 Syrah Collezione De Marchi is full-bodied and luscious. Notes of jammy dark fruit, earthiness and spices emerge from the glass in a unique expression that is as much about Tuscan terroir as it is about varietal Syrah character. Showing outstanding length on the palate as well as notable freshness for the vintage, it is yet another terrific effort from Paolo de Marchi. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Wine Advocate # 171; Jun 2007 Antonio Galloni 92 points

Isole e Olena is comprised of two farms, "Isole" and "Olena," purchased by the De Marchi family in the 1950s. The current manager, Paolo De Marchi (see photo), is the fourth generation of the De Marchi to make wine in Italy (the extended family also makes wine in Piedmonte). Paolo graduated from the University of Torino where he specialized in Oenology, and currently maintains relationships with the Oenology faculties of the Universities of Montpellier, Beaune, Torino, Geisenheim and UC Davis. He is among the most respected winemakers in the world. His early enthusiasm for "extra-Tuscan" grapes in Chianti has been tempered by his respect for the unique characteristics of Tuscany's indigenous Sangiovese. This is a demanding grape, difficult to ripen and requiring extraordinary work in the vineyards to insure high quality. Paolo still produces small amounts of wines from "international varieties," including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Chardonnay, but his Chianti Classico and Cepparello (100% Sangiovese), are his own, best contribution to Tuscan culture.

Wonderful bright fruit, with hints of minerals and fresh flowers. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a long, long finish. Concentrated and powerful, showing layers and layers of fruit and tannins. The best I have had from this fantastic winemaker. Best after 2009. 1,125 cases made. –JS; Wine Spectator

100% Nebbiolo. Clear garnet red with a frank and ethereal scent of dried violet, wild berries, fine spices and licorice. A dry, soft, warm, well balanced, quite tannic wine with a long and pleasant finish.

3 glasses from Gambero Rosso

2001 Barolo Campe—Saturated ruby. Huge nose of toasted oak and super-ripe sweet fruit that defines this producer’s wines. The 2001 Campe is massive on the palate, revealing layers of sweet dark fruit, licorice, tar, menthol, and spice flavors, with excellent sustain, finishing with broad and long tannins. A beautiful wine made in a very modern, extracted and super-ripe style. 2001 is the first vintage in which Giorgio Rivetti had complete control of his Barolo vineyard at Grinzane Cavour, and it shows in the much improved quality of this wine over last year’s version. 92 points/drink after 2009, tasted 05/05 Italy Report # G3,4; Jul 2005 Antonio Galloni 92 Drink 2009

2001 La Spinetta Barolo Campe (from barrel)—This is a brooding, extracted and muscular Barolo, with a gorgeous nose of dark cherries in liqueur, spices, and mint. The palate is packed with dense sweet and stewed fruit. It is a young, backward and richly structured wine that will take some time to come around. (90-92) points A side-by-side tasting of the 2000 and 2001 vintages of the Barolo Campe was very telling. Rivetti says 2000 is a vintage for people who aren’t used to drinking Barolos, or who don’t usually like the wines, but I think he is underestimating the palate of most consumers. When the two wines are tasted side by side, the 2000 disappears, and the 2001 is clearly, at least to me, the more nuanced, complex, and compelling wine. Italy Report # G1; Dec 2004 Antonio Galloni (90-92) points

Amazing value. The kind of value you see very rarely in Australia. Good quality Piedmonte for under $20. Really well packaged too. Steal. Campbell Mattinson

A curious blend of Barbera and Nebbiolo from the Langhe, but why not? Importer: Fourth Wave Wine Partners. Has a bit of lift and then into cherries, violet, liquorice, leather and a kiss of creamy oak. It’s a lightish wine but one with excellent flavour and texture – powder fine tannins and good persistence are highlights. A multiple glass affair that gets three big ticks for regionality, interest and value. Rated : 91 Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front

A more-ish, savoury drop of well priced Italian red that combines the renowned Piemontese varieties Barbera and Nebbiolo. It smells suitably complex with a rich nose of dense, jammy berry fruit, Italian deli counters and tar. Its deeply flavoured and persistent with mount-watering acidity and savoury tannins. 4 Stars; Ralph Kyte-Powell; The Age

is my second wine from Fourth Wave distributors in a week and they have a canny ability to pick European wines that over deliver on flavour and are very affordable. This is 70% Barbera and 30% Nebbiolo and sourced from younger vineyards in and around the villages of Barberesco and Barolo. It combines lovely fruit aromas of plum, cherry and violet with really earthy savoury tones. Structurally it presents the perky fruit and acid structure of Barbera with the subtle tannin weight of Nebbiolo thanks to judicious blending. It’s a food wine that will bring plenty of pleasure to those sharing it with a plate of homemade meatballs. You’ll have drowned most of the bottle before you finish your mains. Emminently slurpable and affordable for a wine from Piedmont. Big tick; Wining Pom

The 2007 Barbera d-Alba is a ripe, generous red that caresses the palate with waves of silky, textured fruit. This impeccable, elegant Barbera reveals terrific persistence and a long, polished finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012” 90 Points. Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate #185, Oct 2009.

Cannubi Boschis has been vinified separately since 1985: this decision by Luciano Sandrone, brought the concept of the “cru” to the Langa district. This historic innovation, and the quality of the wine that resulted, launched Sandrone on to the international stage. Like few other Langa vineyards, Cannubi Boschis produces wines of remarkable quality year after year, almost regardless of the season. The 2005 can again be described as ‘classic’ Barolo; beautiful and complex aromatics lead to a wonderfully balanced wine in the mouth – intense, yes, but also very fine, refined and elegant with powdery tannins and a classy, lingering close.

Offers blueberry aromas, with sweet tobacco and mahogany. Full-bodied, rich and powerful, with plum pudding and milk chocolate flavors. This is very special. The Sandrones are genius with Cannubi. Best after 2013. 790 cases made. 96 Points, James Suckling, Winespectator.com July 31, 2009.

Sandrone’s 2005 Barolo Cannubi Boschis offers up pretty notes of mint, flowers, spices and dark red berries, with sweet notes of French oak that linger on the finish. This is a decidedly slender Cannubi Boschis that lacks some of the sheer pedigree and explosiveness of the best vintages. The tannins need some time to soften, but this is a wine that has continued to grow in bottle. It could very well turn out to be one of the vintage’s surprises. In 2005 the harvest took place at the end of September and the wine was aged in 500-liter barrels (one-third new). Anticipated maturity: 2011-2020. 95 Points, Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate #182, April 2009.

The Cannubi Boschis vineyard is blessed with a remarkable aspect and remarkable soils. The exposure is south/southeast and the bowl or “conca” shape of the land helps hold the warmth in the early morning. Its soils are calcareous (limestone) clay. To be clear, Boschis is a particular terroir within the Cannubi hill. Like few other Langhe vineyards, Cannubi Boschis produces hedonistic wines of remarkable quality year after year, almost regardless of the season. This site has been vinified separately by Luciano Sandrone since 1985; a decision that was instrumental in bringing the concept of “Cru” or single terroir wines to the district. The quality of the wine that resulted launched Sandrone on to the international stage. The 2007 has all the characteristics that have made this vineyard so famous: intense and complex aromatics, wonderful balance and sexy texture in the mouth, very fine, powdery tannins and great length. Rob fought tooth and nail to get as much as this as possible. The note below says it all.

The 2007 Barolo Cannubi Boschis dazzles from start to finish. It shows marvelous delineation and freshness in its voluptuous, harmonious fruit, with no hard edges and an expansive, textured personality that conquers both the palate and intellect. Here, too, the oak is very well integrated, while the wine's balance and overall sense of harmony are nothing short of stunning. This is one of the very finest vintages of Cannubi Boschis. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032. 97 points, Antonio Galloni, erobertparker.com, issue 193 Feb 2011

The 1999 Le Vigne presents a highly aromatic, perfumed nose and gorgeous layers of bright, focused red fruit on a medium-bodied frame, with excellent length and concentration. This firmly structured Barolo remains a model of restrained elegance and finesse that strikes a gorgeous balance between traditional and modern expressions of Barolo. It will benefit from a few years of bottle age and drink well until age 20. 93 Points, Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate, Apr 2007

Sweet blackberry and cherry aromas, with hints of flowers. Full-bodied, with a solid core of blackberry fruit and a long finish. Tight and chewy. Layered and pretty. Racy and fruity. Best after 2011. 92 Points. James Suckling, Winespectator.com July 31, 2009.

The 2005 Barolo Le Vigne opens with fresh, high-toned aromas that meld into a core of perfumed red fruits. There is notable vibrancy to the fruit, and although the 2005 is a relatively small-scaled vintage for this wine, the balance is exceptional. The Le Vigne has more than enough fruit to follow through all the way to the close, where notes of raspberry jam offer a final burst of intensity. Le Vigne is made from a number of parcels in Vignane (Barolo), Conterni and Ceretta (Monforte) and Merli (Novello). In 2005 the harvest took place in the first two weeks of October. The wines were vinified separately, then racked into 500-liter barrels. The final blend was assembled in the summer of 2006. Every year I taste through the various parcels separately and every year I am amazed by the way the final blend transcends the quality of the individual wines. Simply put, Le Vigne is a gem of a wine from Luciano Sandrone. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021. 94 Points, Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate #182, April 2009.

Sandrone’s 2006 Barolo Le Vigne possesses awesome balance as intricately woven layers of aromas and flavors come together in the glass. The 2006 is an especially powerful Le Vigne boasting a solid core of floral, red fruits supported by firm yet elegant tannins. This, too, shows the considerable drive and focus that is the hallmark of the vintage. The wine’s overall balance is impeccable. Le Vigne is made from parcels in Vignane (Barolo), Conterni and Ceretta (Monforte) and Merli (Novello). The wines are aged separately for a year in 500-liter barrels. The final blend is assembled, after which the wine spends an additional year in oak prior to being bottled. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. 96 points, Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate

In a sense this is Sandrone’s “traditional Barolo” in so far as it is a blend of several small parcels of vines (the sites are listed below). It is the product of four winegrowing areas; all very different in terms of altitude, soil and exposure. All come together in a remarkable synergy to produce this wonderful Barolo. The vineyards are as follows: Vignane (Barolo), Merli (Novello), Conterni (Monforte), Ceretta (Monforte). As the notes below indicate, the 2006 Le Vigne is a blinder.