Charvin made a fine 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape which is a blend of 82% Grenache, 8% Syrah, and the rest equal parts Mourvedre and Vaccarese. The wine is classic Chateauneuf, a naked expression of its site and varietals with beautifully pure black cherry fruit notes intermixed with licorice, some roasted herbs, and a hint of spice and roasted meats. With its wonderful intensity, beautiful purity, and loads of finesse and flavor, it’s a beauty that is drinking well and should continue to evolve for at least 10-12 years. As I have said so many times, young Laurent Charvin, working from this vineyard in the very northern sector of Chateauneuf du Pape, produces one of the most elegant and sublime Chateauneuf du Papes of the area . In short, the wines most closely resemble the finesse of Chateau Rayas when it was made by the late Jacques Reynaud. A real value from this estate is their Cotes du Rhone, which is a wonderful introduction to the style of the winemaking and is essentially a down-sized version of their Chateauneuf du Pape. Drink 2007 - 2019; Wine Advocate # 169; Feb 2007 Robert Parker 90
 
Laurent Charvin, the young, dedicated proprietor, made an elegant, finesse-styled 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape from a blend of 82% Grenache, 8% Syrah, and the rest equal parts Mourvedre and Vaccarese. Medium to dark ruby with an elegant nose of sweet raspberries, flowers, and cherries, the wine is medium-bodied but has outstanding density, attractive, sweet tannins, and decent acidity in a sensual, seductive style. Drink it over the next 10-14 years. Drink 2006 - 2020; Wine Advocate # 163; Feb 2006 Robert Parker (90-92)

The 2004 red Hermitage, which was given a much longer time in barrel and small foudre than normal because the Chaves determined the tannins and the acids needed a longer time to integrate, is a beauty. The wine exhibits a dense ruby/purple color, a big, sweet nose of creme de cassis, black cherry, licorice, pepper, and a hint of olive paste. It is a full-bodied wine that tastes atypical for this vintage with its beautifully integrated acidity and sweet tannin. The wine is structured, more masculine and backward than the over-the-top, full-throttle 2003. Readers could probably think of it as an improved, modern-day version of the 1988 or 1998.

I reviewed them last year and gave them perfect scores, but before leaving the cellars, I had the privilege of retasting the 2003 red Hermitage (about 16% natural alcohol) and the 2003 red Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin (2400 bottles produced, and the Chaves aren’t sure whether they will ever release the wine commercially). Both wines exhibited extraordinary richness and possess a singularly profound identity, but I couldn’t swallow them without saluting a lost friend. Steve “The Ho” Verlin, who often visited Chave with me, tragically passed away a year ago at a very young age. Among all the great wines he loved, bought, drank, and celebrated, some of his favorites were the wines of Chave. We had tasted the 2003s here together when they were infants, and again when they were in bottle, utterly perfect. I like to think Steve was here in spirit, enjoying the moment and standing next to me and the Chaves. Here’s to you, Steve!

People still obsess about the red wines of Chave, but of course his whites are spectacular as well, and as I have always said, one of the most educational stops on my trips is tasting through the different cuvees that emerge from separate sites on the hills of Hermitage. Wine Advocate # 170 Apr 2007 Robert Parker 94 Drink: 2011 - 2031

Made in a totally different style, the masculine, backward 2005 Hermitage exhibits an inky/dark ruby/purple color along with aromas of graphite, creme de cassis, licorice, roasted herbs, and scorched earth. The minerality and tannins dominate this gamy, thick, rich 2005, which, given its tannic structure, is closest in style to a vintage such as 1995 or 1998. Give it 7-10 more years of cellaring, and drink it over the following three decades.

One of my favorite true and authentic vignerons to visit is the Chave family, located in the tiny, one-horse village of Mauves, just south of Tournon. The son, Jean-Louis, is taking over the reins more and more, but his father, Gerard, is still involved even though he is officially retired. As always, these wines performed brilliantly. Readers should keep in mind that the reviews of the 2007 white Hermitage and 2007 red Hermitage are a matter of extrapolating from tasting all the separate vineyards that go into these wines. That said, the Chaves appear to be ratcheting up their quality level because of a Draconian selection process in the vineyard as well as in the winery. The Chave estate wines’ finest value is St.-Joseph (5,000 bottles produced in each vintage), which comes from hillside vines planted in pure schist just outside their home village of Mauves. Wine Advocate # 182 Apr 2009 Robert Parker 95+ Drink: 2016 - 2036

The red 2007 Hermitage is a candidate for the wine of the vintage. It is a blend of fruit from some of Hermitage’s finest vineyard sites (Les Bessards, Meal, l’Ermite, Peleat, and Les Beaumes). The latter two vineyards tend to offer finesse, elegance, and aromatic complexity without the power and richness found in Meal and Les Bessards. L’Ermite seems to provide an extraordinary liqueur of rocks and floral character. The 2007 production was very tiny because of serious crop-thinning as well as a strict selection process in the cellar. This should turn out to be a mid-90 point red Hermitage with loads of tannin, and a style not dissimilar from Chave’s 1996, but even better. Very structured with superb concentration, noble sweet tannins, and oodles of tar-infused creme de cassis, licorice, fig, and earth notes. It is a large-framed, big-boned effort with a finish that lasts nearly a minute. Wine Advocate # 182 Apr 2009 Robert Parker (93-95)

One of my favorite true and authentic vignerons to visit is the Chave family, located in the tiny, one-horse village of Mauves, just south of Tournon. The son, Jean-Louis, is taking over the reins more and more, but his father, Gerard, is still involved even though he is officially retired. As always, these wines performed brilliantly. Readers should keep in mind that the reviews of the 2007 white Hermitage and 2007 red Hermitage are a matter of extrapolating from tasting all the separate vineyards that go into these wines. That said, the Chaves appear to be ratcheting up their quality level because of a Draconian selection process in the vineyard as well as in the winery. The Chave estate wines’ finest value is St.-Joseph (5,000 bottles produced in each vintage), which comes from hillside vines planted in pure schist just outside their home village of Mauves.

Tasting through the component parts of the 2004 Hermitage blanc suggests this is another profound example of this cuvee. Boasting extraordinary richness and minerality as well as remarkable concentration and elegance, it is a big, deep white with abundant freshness and power. It should drink well for 20-25 years. Wine Advocate # 163 Feb 2006 Robert Parker (93-97) Drink: 2006 - 2031

The 2004 Hermitage blanc, which hit 15% natural alcohol, is another superb effort, continuing a succession of totally profound white Hermitages from 2003, 2004, and 2005. As many readers know, this small family producer has been making wine in Hermitage since 1481! The 2004 (about 1000 cases) reveals a light gold color, terrific finesse and elegance in spite of its enormous power, unctuosity, and richness. Of course, it is not as honeyed as the otherworldly 2003 (which hit 16% natural alcohol) but it is an amazingly full-bodied, powerful wine with pervasive honeysuckle, peach liqueur, and nectarine notes intermixed with licorice, quince, and acacia flowers. This is gorgeous wine which should evolve for 20-25 years. Wine Advocate # 170 Apr 2007 Robert Parker 95 Drink: 2007 - 2032

The sumptuous 2003 red Châteauneuf du Pape...was pure raspberry and kirsch liqueur with gorgeous texture and opulence. Score: 98 Robert Parker, Hedonists Gazette, June 2007
 
The 2003 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape (the # 2 wine in the Wine Spectator’s annual winefest) has long been one of the most profound wines of the vintage. It somehow manages to offer the vintage’s character in power, high glycerin, and huge volume, but retains remarkable elegance and finesse that is so much in keeping with the style of Clos des Papes. The wine has a dense ruby/purple-tinged color and a wonderfully sweet nose of framboise, blackberry, and kirsch liqueur intermixed with Chinese black tea and licorice. The wine is full-bodied and voluptuous, but once past all the glycerin and beautiful, dense fruit of this full-bodied wine, there is striking purity, elegance, finesse, and surprising freshness. Still primary, it looks set to have a long life of 20-25 or more years. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2025. Score: 97 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (163), February 2
 
Lilting and perfumy, with raspberry, boysenberry, floral, mineral and mocha flavours leading to a long, silky, refined finish. Score: 97 James Molesworth (Wine Spectator), Wine Spectator, November 2005

# 2 wine in the Wine Spectator Top 100 in 2005

Dark red. Exotic, even flamboyant on the nose, which displays strong red berry preserve, candied cherry, mineral and floral scents. Round and juicy, with deep red fruit flavors and a strong note of licorice. This is showing even more energy today than it did on release. Lush and sweet on the finish, leaving behind spicecake and cherry notes. I rated this wine 94 points on release and now think that I was stingy. Rated: 95 by Josh Raynolds, Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape (15.2% alcohol, with essentially the same technical statistics as the 2005) is a completely different animal in terms of tasting. Opulent, full-bodied, and lush, it tastes as if someone had blended 65% of the 2003 with 35% of the 2005, and 2006 was the result. Deep ruby/purple-colored, with a sweet nose of framboise, raspberries, garrigue, spice box, and earth, the wine is gorgeously concentrated, with low acidity, and very ripe but high tannins. The overall impression is one of opulence, generosity, and a sexy, hedonistic style of Chateauneuf du Pape that puts it among the very finest of the vintage. Nevertheless, I still suspect 2-3 years of bottle age will be essential, and this wine will keep for 25 or more years.

This remains one of the irrefutable reference point estates for traditional Chateauneuf du Pape. The wine is always aged in a battery of foudres in the air-conditioned and humidified cellars. Vincent Avril told me that yields have been very low since 2003 at Clos des Papes, with 24 hectoliters per hectare in 2003 and 21 hectoliters per hectare in 2004, 2005, and 2006. Alcohols have consistently been above 15%, with the highest in 2003, and lower but still above 15% in 2004, 2005 and 2006. This estate has produced one of the great Chateauneuf du Papes of the 2006 vintage, and to my taste, it is a sexier, more hedonistic, and compete wine than even the 2005. Of course, the classic blend is 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah and the rest very small percentages of Vaccarese, Counoise, and Muscardin. Wine Advocate 96-98

94-97 International Wine Cellar

Dark, inviting and very alluring, with captivating black tea, charred mesquite and kirsch aromas and flavors allied to a remarkably silky mouthfeel. Superlong, with mineral, violet, pepper and additional crushed cherry and plum fruit notes all gliding through the finish. Shows none of the difficulties of the vintage-arguably the best property in the appellation right now. Best from 2011 through 2027. 95 points; James Molesworth; The Wine Spectator

As with many houses in the region, the cepage for the red wine at Clos des Papes is based on a majority of Grenache (65%), with smaller quantities of Mouvedre (20%) and Syrah (10%). The remainder of the blend consists of small amounts of some of the lesser-known varietals approved in the appellation, namely Muscardin, Counoise and Vacarese. The wines spend their infancy in tank and are then transferred to large foudres for an elevage which lasts approximately 14-15 months

I tasted through various foudres of the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape and it is unquestionably a top-flight wine for Clos des Papes that is seductive and forward by the standards of this estate. It reminded me of the precocious style of the 2003, and Avril told me the 2009 is less alcoholic than either the 2003 or 2007, and the pH is a normal 3.75. Yields were a very small 20 hectoliters per hectare, largely because of their selection process and the drought. Every foudre I tasted was beautifully pure displaying a deep ruby/plum color, sweet kirsch and black raspberry fruit, full body, decent acidity (they never acidify here) and sweet, velvety tannins. This should turn out to be a mid-90-point wine that will take a back seat to the 2007, possibly even to their monumental 2006, but will surpass what they did in 2008, 2005, 2004, 1999 and 1998. The 2009 is a beautiful success that should drink well for 15+ years. 95 Points; Robert Parker

The vineyards of Saint-Joseph cover more than 35 miles from Chavanay in the North, to Guilherand in the south, on the right bank of the Rhone river. The soil is gravel comprised of schist and gneiss rock over granite. The climate is moderate, with dry hot summers and normal rainfall the rest of the year. The vineyards have south and southeastern sun exposure. The production area is 1,964 acres yielding 564,982 gallons per year. The maximum yield is 352 gal/acre.

The "Sainte-Epine" grapes are harvested by hand, at optimum maturity. Fermentation takes place in traditional, open-topped concrete tanks, after three days of pre-fermentary skin contact at cool temperatures. Maceration continues at controlled temperatures of 82-86 degrees Farenheit. Cap pressing and pumping takes place daily, with a total maceration period of up to 20 days. After devatting and pressing, malolactic fermentation is carried out in oak barrels.

The flagship offering from St.-Joseph, and one of the three greatest wines of the appellation, is Delas’ 2006 St.-Joseph Ste.-Epine. A more long-term effort (2-3 years of cellaring is recommended) with additional tannin, structure, concentration, and depth, it is a wine of great nobility and terroir. The 2006 exhibits plenty of earthy blackberry and sweet black currant fruit along with hints of graphite, licorice, smoked meats, and powdered rocks. It should evolve for 15+ years.

In the late 1990s, as the quality of one of the northern Rhone’s most well-known negociant firms, Paul Jaboulet-Aine, was beginning to decline, the quality of Delas Freres was soaring, and they are now one of the three top negociant firms in the Rhone Valley. Delas Freres has been the property of Champagne Deutz since 1996, and belongs to the same owners as Champagne Louis Roederer. The owners as well as the Directeur Technique, the brilliant Jacques Grange, and winemaker Jean-Francois Farinet deserve credit for the rise in quality at this operation. The Delas Freres wines continue to go from strength to strength, and while I believe the Jaboulet wines will return to form under the new ownership, Delas Freres is already there. The current portfolio includes strong 2006s and very good 2007s. As long-time readers know, there is a hierarchy to the Delas wines from Crozes-Hermitage, St.-Joseph, Hermitage, and Cote Rotie. The finest values come from Crozes-Hermitage (especially their lower level cuvees, Les Launes and Domaine des Grands Chemins), and from St.-Joseph (Les Challeys). The quality jumps dramatically with the Crozes-Hermitage Le Clos, St.-Joseph Francois de Tournon, and the luxury cuvee, the St.-Joseph Ste.-Epine. In top vintages, there are two offerings from Cote Rotie, the single vineyard La Landonne and the Seigneur de Maugiron. Both cuvees were produced in 2006, but only the Seigneur de Maugiron was made in 2007 (because of the hail storm that destroyed a large percentage of the crop in Cote Rotie). Delas Freres owns 25 acres in Hermitage, from which they produce two cuvees, with Les Bessards only made in the top vintages. Wine Advocate # 182 Apr 2009 Robert Parker 94 points; Drink: 2011 - 2026

From 30 to 60 year old vines Gilles 2005s are superb. They are rich but typically fine and very complex with loads of floral, spicy and peppery notes which are very much part of the traditional Barge style. This is a great source of Côte-Rôtie crafted with a modern accent, low new oak, and they are wines that handsomely repay serious cellaring. As is normal the Barge Côte-Rôtie’s have notably moderate alcohol levels at 12.5% to 13.0%.

Côte-Rôtie dances with delights, both in the standard cuvées and in the highly impressive, subtle and complex old vine, fine location wines. For lovers of Burgundy, this is a vintage to know. Put your dainty Pinot feet in the granite soil of the Rhône, dear northerners: you will feel at home, and will wonder why you didn’t stray south earlier.

Prime example of traditional Côte-Rôtie. Wines are very consistent. Du Plessy more aromatic, the Côte Brune has good muscle and breeding, and ages well. Condrieu and St-Joseph contain good fruit. John Livingston Learmonth

Marcel Guigal has produced a superb Chateauneuf du Pape in 2001. Its medium plum/ruby color is accompanied by a lovely bouquet of kirsch liqueur, ground pepper, Provencal herbs, and balsam wood. Full-bodied and lightly tannic, with loads of fruit and glycerin as well as a sumptuous finish, it is similar to the top-flight, seductive 2000. Drink it over the next 10-12 years. Wine Advocate #151 (Feb 2004)  Robert Parker 92 points  Drink 2004-2016

Fine, deep, dark-red colour. Spicy, with small soft fruit. Round tannins, complexity and power. A rich, full-bodied, smooth wine, with touches of ripe plums, stone fruit and soft fruit. A rich, yet not heady wine. All is harmony and balance. Can be laid down for approximately 15 years - Guigal

The delicately elusive perfume suggests pears, spice, and honeysuckle, while on the palate the wine is surprisingly rich and full-bodied, a wine for both the intellect and the senses.

Condrieu is the original home of the Viognier vine and is the source of one of the world’s most exotic white wines. The tiny, parcelated appellation (500 acres total) is located on steep hillsides beginning at a bend in the Rhône river just south of Côte Rôtie and continuing intermittently about 12 miles further south. Marcel Guigal supplements the production of his own Condrieu vineyards with grapes purchased from numerous small growers, vinifying two thirds of the wine in stainless steel and the remainder in new barriques. Condrieu may be enjoyed as aperitif with foie gras, lobster and other rich seafoods, and white asparagus.

The totally dry 2009 Condrieu offers exotic lychee, pineapple, peach and honeysuckle characteristics along with full-bodied fruit, good acidity and minerality, a luscious mouthfeel and heady alcohol (14.5%). It should drink nicely for 2-3 years; 92 Points; The Wine Advocate

Bright, engaging persimmon, tangerine and white peach notes characterize this juicy, nicely defined white, which shows bolder anise and green melon flavors on the finish. 91 Points; Wine Spectator

Yellow gold, clear and brilliant. Freshness marked by the distinctive aromas of Viognier; white flowers, apricot, acacia and white peach. Fruity with plenty of richness and body. A well-rounded wine with elegance, strength and balance. Food and wine matching: Starters, fish, Asian food.

The 2003 Hermitage Ex-Voto blanc is the quintessential white Hermitage, a blend of 95% Marsanne and 5% Roussanne with extraordinary honeyed licorice, quince, marmalade, and truffle notes, an unctuous texture, great purity and richness, and a profound mouthfeel and length. This is extraordinary wine and certainly one of the most profound dry whites I ever tasted. It seems to be set for an amazingly long life. Wine Advocate # 170; Apr 2007 Robert Parker 96/100; Drink 2004 - 2054

Off the charts in terms of both aromatic and flavor intensity, the 2003 Hermitage Ex-Voto blanc offers a melted liqueur of licorice-like character intermixed with honeysuckle, white truffles, quince, and peaches. Full-bodied, unctuously-textured, and stunningly opulent and long, this fabulous wine was fashioned from 50-90-year old vines planted in Les Murets and l’Hermite. 
Wine Advocate # 163; Feb 2006 Robert Parker 96/100 Drink 2004 - 2054

A candidate for perfection, the compelling 2003 Hermitage Ex-Voto blanc possesses off the charts richness, honeyed complexity, depth, and power that must be tasted to be believed. It should last for half a century. Wine Advocate # 156; Dec 2004 Robert Parker (96-100/100) Drink 2004 - 2054

2003 E. Guigal Ermitage Blanc Ex-Voto Very rich, waxy aromas of apricot, honey, smoked nuts and camphor. Offers compelling pear and apricot fruit, with superb framing acidity for the vintage contributing shape and structure. Offers outstanding chewiness and solidity, and finishes with superb length and spice. This fruit was harvested on August 22 with 15. 5% potential alcohol! A great white Hermitage in the making. - 93-95 - Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar - 01-02/05

Light gold. A stunning bouquet offers powerful pear, peach pit, anise, salty minerality and a huge wallop of smoky peat-this smells like an Islay whisky! Painfully concentrated pit fruit flavors are complemented by orange peel, clove and smoked meat, but there's an elegance to this that's reminiscent of a top-notch Burgundy. A simply remarkable wine, with uncanny complexity and depth of flavor. Stephen Tanzer -International Wine Cellar 96-98

The 2005 Hermitage Ex-Voto blanc (a blend from 50- to 90-year-old vines mostly from the Hermitage vineyard called Les Murets, with about 10% of the blend from the top of Hermitage, a vineyard called l’Hermite), is phenomenally intense and a sort of white Hermitage on steroids. Honeysuckle, quince, peach liqueur, and white truffles are all part of this mineral-based, powerful, massive style of dry white wine that should drink well for 4-5 years and then go into its dormant stage and not re-emerge for 10-20 years. From a longevity perspective, it is certainly a 50-year white wine. Wine Advocate # 170 Apr 2007 Robert Parker (96-98) Drink 2007 - 2057

The medium-bodied, pleasant 2004 Gigondas exhibits notes of cherries, earth, spice, and herbs. It is a good effort in a tough vintage for this appellation. Guigal’s Chateauneuf du Pape is usually a blend of 80-85% Grenache and the rest equal parts Syrah and Mourvedre. It is fashioned from fruit purchased from over forty different growers which is blended by Guigal, and then aged in large wood foudres for 2-3 years.

Better than the 2003, the 2004 Gigondas reveals deeper, sweeter, blacker fruits along with additional minerality, body, and depth. It should drink well for 10-12 years after its release.

The 2004 Gigondas is very tasty, very Provencal, and a super effort for the vintage. Drink it over the next 6-10 years. Wine Advocate # 175; Feb 2008 Robert Parker 90 points Drink: 2008 - 2018