From a .32 ha parcel of vines just below those of Château de la Tour in the lower middle of the slope. This is relatively expressive for a young Clos de Vougeot with an expansive nose of ripe red berry fruit and warm soil tones that are in keeping with the rich, full, sweet and powerful broad-shouldered flavors that possess good ripeness and traces of the classic youthful austerity of Clos de Vougeot. Very solid if not truly knockout quality here.2016+, 92 Points” Allen Meadows, Burghound Issue 33 Jan 2009

Clive Coates on Domaine Denis Mortet: “But of course great winemaking cannot be encapsulated in a single paragraph. It is about a meticulous attention to detail from the vineyard onward, a very low yield, a very severe selection of fruit and, above all, flair and imagination...The wines are full-bodied, concentrated, harmonious, intensely flavoured and splendidly elegant.” The Wines of Burgundy (revised), 2008 

The late Denis Mortet’s son Arnaud has now taken over completely the responsibility for the vines and winemaking. The young Mortet is already renowned in Burgundy for the quality of his vineyard work and grower after grower spoke admiringly of how Arnaud has picked up right where his father left off. I should add that compliments from colleagues when it concerns vineyard work are given sparingly in Burgundy but the two domaines that are routinely mentioned are Mortet and Groffier....The Mortet ‘06s came in at or above my predicted ranges and the sweet spot is the group of Gevrey 1ers as they are really lovely wines. Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 33 Jan 2009

Here the nose is fresher still with more elegant if less densely fruited aromas that run from red to blue to violet that include an attractive touch of wet stone that also runs the length of the refined, detailed and admirably pure flavors that culminate in a dusty, precise, sappy and long finale. I like the balance and overall sense of energy. Drink 2014+ 89-91 Points, Allen Meadows, Burghound Issue 33 Jan 2009

The late Denis Mortet’s son Arnaud has now taken over completely the responsibility for the vines and winemaking. The young Mortet is already renowned in Burgundy for the quality of his vineyard work and grower after grower spoke admiringly of how Arnaud has picked up right where his father left off. I should add that compliments from colleagues when it concerns vineyard work are given sparingly in Burgundy but the two domaines that are routinely mentioned are Mortet and Groffier… Mortet, who had already been vinifying under his father's tutelage, has begun to change the approach slightly while careful not to suggest that his father's approach was wrong, noting that "I want more elegance and finesse coupled with less extraction. The 2007 vintage gave us round wines and fine tannins and I reasoned that there was no reason to fight what Mother Nature had given us. So, I did a relatively soft vinification and while I had already reduced the amount of new wood in 2006, I reduced it again in 2007 and may do so again in 2008. Overall, the 2007s are wines of elegance and terroir plus they are very pinot in basic character." Mortet explained that the malos were very long in 2007 and many wines had only just finished. This, coupled with the reduction in new wood [new wood is more porous, permitting a better external exchange of oxygen and thus less reduction], explicates why many of the wines display various stages of reduction. The Mortet '07s came in at or above my predicted ranges and the sweet spot is the group of Gevrey 1ers as they are really lovely wines.

From 40 year old vines. “Smooth and ripe, evoking red and black cherry and oak spice notes. Balanced and juicy, yet with firm, fine-grained tannins underneath, followed by a nice expansive finish. Drink now through 2016. 1,033 cases made. –BS” 90 Points, Wine Spectator

Clive Coates on Domaine Denis Mortet: “But of course great winemaking cannot be encapsulated in a single paragraph. It is about a meticulous attention to detail from the vineyard onward, a very low yield, a very severe selection of fruit and, above all, flair and imagination...The wines are full-bodied, concentrated, harmonious, intensely flavoured and splendidly elegant.” The Wines of Burgundy (revised), 2008 

The late Denis Mortet’s son Arnaud has now taken over completely the responsibility for the vines and winemaking. The young Mortet is already renowned in Burgundy for the quality of his vineyard work and grower after grower spoke admiringly of how Arnaud has picked up right where his father left off. I should add that compliments from colleagues when it concerns vineyard work are given sparingly in Burgundy but the two domaines that are routinely mentioned are Mortet and Groffier....The Mortet ‘06s came in at or above my predicted ranges and the sweet spot is the group of Gevrey 1ers as they are really lovely wines. Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 33 Jan 2009

Fabulous purity and class here. Cool, refined Gevrey. “We're back on form here as this is easily the most refined if not the most elegant wine in the range with a pure, cool and airy nose of dark berry fruit, minerals, violets and a touch of ripe plum that complements the delineated and equally pure middle weight flavors that offer a wonderful blend of power and finesse with real drive and verve on the strikingly long finish. The supporting tannins are ripe and this should age very well. Drink 2015+ 90-93 Points, Allen Meadows, Burghound Issue 33 Jan 2009

The late Denis Mortet’s son Arnaud has now taken over completely the responsibility for the vines and winemaking. The young Mortet is already renowned in Burgundy for the quality of his vineyard work and grower after grower spoke admiringly of how Arnaud has picked up right where his father left off. I should add that compliments from colleagues when it concerns vineyard work are given sparingly in Burgundy but the two domaines that are routinely mentioned are Mortet and Groffier… Mortet, who had already been vinifying under his father's tutelage, has begun to change the approach slightly while careful not to suggest that his father's approach was wrong, noting that "I want more elegance and finesse coupled with less extraction. The 2007 vintage gave us round wines and fine tannins and I reasoned that there was no reason to fight what Mother Nature had given us. So, I did a relatively soft vinification and while I had already reduced the amount of new wood in 2006, I reduced it again in 2007 and may do so again in 2008. Overall, the 2007s are wines of elegance and terroir plus they are very pinot in basic character." Mortet explained that the malos were very long in 2007 and many wines had only just finished. This, coupled with the reduction in new wood [new wood is more porous, permitting a better external exchange of oxygen and thus less reduction], explicates why many of the wines display various stages of reduction. The Mortet '07s came in at or above my predicted ranges and the sweet spot is the group of Gevrey 1ers as they are really lovely wines.

From vines over 50 years of age. This is finer and more elegant if reserved with reticent, ripe and earthy red pinot fruit that displays a touch of forest floor that slides into delicious, rich and full-bodied flavors that possess good dry extract levels and a mouth coating finish that possesses excellent phenolic maturity. A serious villages built to age that is recommended. 2013+ 89 Points” Allen Meadows, Burghound Issue 33 Jan 2009

Clive Coates on Domaine Denis Mortet: “But of course great winemaking cannot be encapsulated in a single paragraph. It is about a meticulous attention to detail from the vineyard onward, a very low yield, a very severe selection of fruit and, above all, flair and imagination...The wines are full-bodied, concentrated, harmonious, intensely flavoured and splendidly elegant.” The Wines of Burgundy (revised), 2008 

The late Denis Mortet’s son Arnaud has now taken over completely the responsibility for the vines and winemaking. The young Mortet is already renowned in Burgundy for the quality of his vineyard work and grower after grower spoke admiringly of how Arnaud has picked up right where his father left off. I should add that compliments from colleagues when it concerns vineyard work are given sparingly in Burgundy but the two domaines that are routinely mentioned are Mortet and Groffier....The Mortet ‘06s came in at or above my predicted ranges and the sweet spot is the group of Gevrey 1ers as they are really lovely wines. Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 33 Jan 2009

While reduced, earth, musk and sauvage notes are still discernable, probably because they too transfer over to the very round, rich and suave, indeed even lush medium full-bodied flavors that are supple and mouth coating as the amount of dry extract present is impressive, which confers a very textured and opulent mouth feel onto the solidly deep and persistent finish. This isn't elegant but this should please those who enjoy very plush burgs.” Drink 2013+ 87-90 Points, Allen Meadows, Burghound Issue 33 Jan 2009

The late Denis Mortet’s son Arnaud has now taken over completely the responsibility for the vines and winemaking. The young Mortet is already renowned in Burgundy for the quality of his vineyard work and grower after grower spoke admiringly of how Arnaud has picked up right where his father left off. I should add that compliments from colleagues when it concerns vineyard work are given sparingly in Burgundy but the two domaines that are routinely mentioned are Mortet and Groffier… Mortet, who had already been vinifying under his father's tutelage, has begun to change the approach slightly while careful not to suggest that his father's approach was wrong, noting that "I want more elegance and finesse coupled with less extraction. The 2007 vintage gave us round wines and fine tannins and I reasoned that there was no reason to fight what Mother Nature had given us. So, I did a relatively soft vinification and while I had already reduced the amount of new wood in 2006, I reduced it again in 2007 and may do so again in 2008. Overall, the 2007s are wines of elegance and terroir plus they are very pinot in basic character." Mortet explained that the malos were very long in 2007 and many wines had only just finished. This, coupled with the reduction in new wood [new wood is more porous, permitting a better external exchange of oxygen and thus less reduction], explicates why many of the wines display various stages of reduction. The Mortet '07s came in at or above my predicted ranges and the sweet spot is the group of Gevrey 1ers as they are really lovely wines.

Very charming and correct with real life to it. Good balance and true Gevrey character. Long. Drink 2011 to 2019; 17/20 Jancis Robinson.com, 29 Jan 2009.

A very fresh and bright nose of green fruit, white flower and citrus nuances leads to cool, refreshing and vibrant middle weight flavors blessed with a light mineral streak on good detail and punch on the solidly long finish. Very good quality for what this is. Tasted: Jun 01, 2009 Score: 88 Drink: 2010+ Issue 35 Burghound

Domaine Leflaive needs little introduction to wine lovers. It has been described as Burgundy’s greatest white wine domaine, and while this is a pretty strong claim, it is a justifiable one. They have some of the finest vineyard holdings in Puligny Montrachet and in 1997, after much experimentation made the very bold and brave decision to convert fully to bio-dynamic viticulture. The results speak for themselves.

Outstanding Top value; An expressive and ever-so-mildly rustic green fruit and citrus suffused nose merges into delicious and nicely precise flavors that possess good cut and punch on the linear and long finish. This is not overly complex but for what this is it delivers excellent quality. Tasted: Jun 01, 2010; Score: 89 Drink: 2012+ Issue 39; Allen Meadows; Burghound

This has lovely notes of dried lavender, hot stones, almond milk, a touch of tea, and gentle citrus fruits all coming together on the nose. Tightly coiled up front this is sinewy and ready to burst with rich citrus fruit tones over an almost salty bed of rocks. Crisp and yet a bit chewy at the same time with read more...gentle notes of really crisp fruit alternating with hints of a soft, buttery, nutty, dried pork fat tones that is washed away on the moderately long finish by pure and refreshing citrus fruits. Delicious but quite young, this deserves a bit of time in the cellar to soften just a touch and gain some breadth but for those looking for a focused, zesty bottle tonight I say - go for it! Serve it with a simply roasted pork loin. 91 Points; Snooth

A gentle background touch of oak spice adds nuance to the soft white peach, pear and perfumed floral aromas that introduce nicely rich and distinctly more refined middle weight flavors underpinned by subtle mineral notes and a punchy, naturally sweet and persistent finish. Again, very good rather than truly distinguished quality for its level. Tasted: Jul 01, 2008 Score: 87-89 Drink: 2010+ Issue 31 Allen Meadows; Burghound

Pierre Morey, the domaine's régisseur (who will be retiring in July), told me that 2006 was a "vintage that began with a very cold and long winter. Frosts were common up to the middle of March and save for a few unseasonably warm days in February, it was one of the colder winters we have seen in recent years. In fact, the night December 30th we had temperatures of -15° C, which is brisk. There were showers but ultimately, so little of it accumulated that it was drier than usual and did nothing to top up the underlying water tables. March was damp, April varied and May was cool yet June and July were very hot. The flowering was quick and the fruit set was early and we had fully formed berries by mid-July. Unfortunately, August was both cool and humid though September turned out to be ideal with dry and sunny conditions. We began picking on September 20th and continued through the 27th. The ripeness levels climbed extremely rapidly at the end of the growing season so it was important to be in the right vineyard at the right time to avoid surmaturité. Sugars and cleanliness were good and yields were correct if not abundant. 2006 reminds me of 1986 just like 2005 reminds me of 1985. As such, the 2006 vintage gave us very good to excellent wines that should drink well over the medium-term." In other news, Morey told me that the domaine had acquired and replanted a .17 ha parcel of the Chassagne 1er "Maltroie" and the first harvest will be in 2008. And the in-bottle tastings of the 2005s confirmed that it is a great vintage chez Leflaive and in most cases, distinctly superior to their 2006 counterparts. Lastly, I have included a note here from Leflaive's new 9 ha domaine in the Mâconnais that is run by a cousin of director Anne-Claude Leflaive. The élevage is currently being done in Puligny in the old Chartron et Trebuchet facility. Note that the wines will be sold under the Domaine Joseph Leflaive label.

Here too there is very subtle wood highlighting an airy, ripe and expressive nose featuring orchard fruit and citrus blossom aromas and continues onto the detailed, punchy and admirably vibrant medium-bodied flavors that finish with moderate dryness and very good length. Again, fine quality here but not up to that of the 2005. Tasted: Jul 01, 2008 Score: 88-91 Drink: 2011+ Issue 31 Allen Meadows; Burghound

Pierre Morey, the domaine's régisseur (who will be retiring in July), told me that 2006 was a "vintage that began with a very cold and long winter. Frosts were common up to the middle of March and save for a few unseasonably warm days in February, it was one of the colder winters we have seen in recent years. In fact, the night December 30th we had temperatures of -15° C, which is brisk. There were showers but ultimately, so little of it accumulated that it was drier than usual and did nothing to top up the underlying water tables. March was damp, April varied and May was cool yet June and July were very hot. The flowering was quick and the fruit set was early and we had fully formed berries by mid-July. Unfortunately, August was both cool and humid though September turned out to be ideal with dry and sunny conditions. We began picking on September 20th and continued through the 27th. The ripeness levels climbed extremely rapidly at the end of the growing season so it was important to be in the right vineyard at the right time to avoid surmaturité. Sugars and cleanliness were good and yields were correct if not abundant. 2006 reminds me of 1986 just like 2005 reminds me of 1985. As such, the 2006 vintage gave us very good to excellent wines that should drink well over the medium-term." In other news, Morey told me that the domaine had acquired and replanted a .17 ha parcel of the Chassagne 1er "Maltroie" and the first harvest will be in 2008. And the in-bottle tastings of the 2005s confirmed that it is a great vintage chez Leflaive and in most cases, distinctly superior to their 2006 counterparts. Lastly, I have included a note here from Leflaive's new 9 ha domaine in the Mâconnais that is run by a cousin of director Anne-Claude Leflaive. The élevage is currently being done in Puligny in the old Chartron et Trebuchet facility. Note that the wines will be sold under the Domaine Joseph Leflaive label.

A pretty and extremely fresh, bright and expressive nose offers up hints of white flower, peach and apple that precede the clean, intense, precise and energetic medium-bodied flavors that possess good cut and more precision than I usually see with this wine, all wrapped in a mildly austere and wonderfully long finish. This seems to have more "presence" than usual. Tasted: Jun 01, 2009 Score: 89-92 Drink: 2013+ Issue 35 Allen Meadows; Burghound

Franck Grux didn't mince any words in describing 2008 as "chaotic and difficult. The summer was so bad that on the first of September I would have said that we would never have sufficiently ripe fruit to make a correct wine. As such, it is indisputably true that 2008 is a vintage where September made the wines because without it, there wouldn't have been much to cheer about. The north wind not only dried out the vineyards but also concentrated the fruit. The reds were more complicated than the whites as the phenolic ripeness levels had less margin for error. As such, we had to be extremely vigilant during the fermentations to avoid extracting any harsh or unripe tannins. While the wines are very terroir, note that they are not charming and will probably be relatively austere for a few years until they mature.

Tasting note: A slightly riper nose of white peach, pear and lemon zest aromas precedes round, rich and much fleshier medium-bodied flavors that possess fine volume and really lovely complexity on the lingering finish. This is worth a look as it's really quite good. Tasted: Jun 01, 2010 Score: 89 Drink: 2013+  Comments: Outstanding Top value Issue 39 Allen Meadows; Burghound

Domaine Dujac is a house that has always been popular in Australia, largely due to the generous spirit of Jacques Seysses. He has influenced scores of young, passionate winemakers such as Jean-Pierre de Smet of l’Arlot.  However the most important reason why these wines are so popular is their great character.  For many of us Domaine Dujac wines are the essence of Burgundy. Anyone who wants to discover the unique majesty of Burgundy that brings seasoned tasters to their knees should look no further than Domaine Dujac.

2004 BONNES MARES: This too evidences a gentle touch of wood on the nose of dark and blue berry fruits laced with earth and a lovely and distinct violet note that is followed by very rich, dense and serious flavours that finish with noticeable austerity. As it usually is, this is a powerful wine that possesses huge length and it sufficiently well structured that it will require the better part of 15 years to really open up and reveal its full, and considerable, potential. In short, wonderful juice but juice for the patient. (92-94)/2018+ www.burghound.com

Domaine Dujac is a house that has always been popular in Australia, largely due to the generous spirit of Jacques Seysses. He has influenced scores of young, passionate winemakers such as Jean-Pierre de Smet of l’Arlot.  However the most important reason why these wines are so popular is their great character.  For many of us Domaine Dujac wines are the essence of Burgundy. Anyone who wants to discover the unique majesty of Burgundy that brings seasoned tasters to their knees should look no further than Domaine Dujac.

2004 CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN: (from both Charmes proper and Mazoyères). A seductive mix of wood spice, high-toned red berry fruit aromas and warm earth undertones give way to round, rich and sappy flavours that offer excellent volume and a delicious yet serious finale. There is a bit more underlying material compared to the Combottes with enough structure to suggest at least a decade’s worth of potential improvement. (90-93)/2014+ www.burghound.com

This is shut down tight with thick reduction blocking any reasonable evaluation of the nose though the relatively big and weighty flavors are concentrated, serious and solidly structured. This seems quite promising as the underlying material is impressive but note that this will not be a precocious example of Charmes. Tasted: Jan 01, 2008 Score: 90-93 Drink: 2016+  Issue 29 Allen Meadows; Burghound

Jacques Seysses' son Jeremy noted that 2006 "reminds me of the vintage conditions that we had in 2001. And the wines are similar as well as both produced classic cool Burgundian wines with pure fruit though the '06s have less tannin than other cool vintages like '91, '93 and 2001. We waited to begin picking until the 25th of September, which I believe was the right choice as we picked up an important addition to the phenolic ripeness levels as well as a bit more sugar, which ranged from a low of 12 to a high of 13.3%. In terms of vinification, we elected to extract as we normally do and we used anywhere from 50 to 100% whole clusters, which is more than what we used in 2001. Overall, I'm very excited about the vintage as it's a fine follow on to 2005 and actually more classic if not at the same quality level." I asked the younger Seysses his view of the vineyards, and in particular, the quality of the plant material in the acquired vineyards (see Issues 21 and 25 for more on these acquisitions) now that the domaine had a full year under their belt with the vines and he responded that "on the whole, we're very happy with what we have. Yes, there are some changes that we have made and will make but it's actually better than we had hoped. Moreover, the vines have made the transition to a different viticultural philosophy quite well, which is a huge relief as we honestly didn't know how the vines would react." Dujac fans will not want to miss these '06s as they really are most impressive and while they're not quite at the same ultimate level as their '05s, the difference is sufficiently minor that it should not dissuade you from adding them to your cellars with confidence. Moreover, they will provide more pleasure sooner, something that is never a bad thing. Allen Meadows; Burghound

A very fresh, pure, spicy and ripe nose features a mix of red and black earth-infused aromas that introduce textured, sweet and layered full-bodied flavors that possess a taut muscularity and perfect balance. While the Dujac Ech is almost always relatively sophisticated for what can be a sometimes rustic grand cru, this is even more refined than usual. This is very promising though note that patience will be required. Tasted: Jan 01, 2009 Score: 92 Drink: 2018+ Issue 33 Allen Meadows; Burghound

Jacques Seysses' son Jeremy noted that 2006 "reminds me of the vintage conditions that we had in 2001. And the wines are similar as well as both produced classic cool Burgundian wines with pure fruit though the '06s have less tannin than other cool vintages like '91, '93 and 2001. We waited to begin picking until the 25th of September, which I believe was the right choice as we picked up an important addition to the phenolic ripeness levels as well as a bit more sugar, which ranged from a low of 12 to a high of 13.3%. In terms of vinification, we elected to extract as we normally do and we used anywhere from 50 to 100% whole clusters, which is more than what we used in 2001. Overall, I'm very excited about the vintage as it's a fine follow on to 2005 and actually more classic if not at the same quality level." I asked the younger Seysses his view of the vineyards, and in particular, the quality of the plant material in the acquired vineyards (see Issues 21 and 25 for more on these acquisitions) now that the domaine had a full year under their belt with the vines and he responded that "on the whole, we're very happy with what we have. Yes, there are some changes that we have made and will make but it's actually better than we had hoped. Moreover, the vines have made the transition to a different viticultural philosophy quite well, which is a huge relief as we honestly didn't know how the vines would react." Dujac fans will not want to miss these '06s as they really are most impressive and while they're not quite at the same ultimate level as their '05s, the difference is sufficiently minor that it should not dissuade you from adding them to your cellars with confidence. Moreover, they will provide more pleasure sooner, something that is never a bad thing. Allen Meadows; Burghound

Domaine Dujac is a house that has always been popular in Australia, largely due to the generous spirit of Jacques Seysses. He has influenced scores of young, passionate winemakers such as Jean-Pierre de Smet of l’Arlot.  However the most important reason why these wines are so popular is their great character.  For many of us Domaine Dujac wines are the essence of Burgundy.  As you taste up through the scale, more complexity and power are added to the mix, qualities which reach their zenith. Anyone who wants to discover the unique majesty of Burgundy that brings seasoned tasters to their knees should look no further than Domaine Dujac.

2004  DUJAC FILS ET PERE GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN: A subdued touch of reduction blends in with earthy dark berry fruit though it doesn’t affect the rich, sweet and round flavours that are more muscular than those of the Morey if somewhat less elegant. This is however a pure and really quite refined in the context of what it is. (86-88)/2007+ www.burghound.com

Fairly strong reduction knocks down the nose but the medium full flavors are rich and fresh with very good concentration in the context of the vintage and while the finish is more obviously rustic, there appears to be slightly better overall material. Tasted: Jan 01, 2008 Score: 86-89 Drink: 2012+ Issue 29 Allen Meadows; Burghound

Jacques Seysses' son Jeremy noted that 2006 "reminds me of the vintage conditions that we had in 2001. And the wines are similar as well as both produced classic cool Burgundian wines with pure fruit though the '06s have less tannin than other cool vintages like '91, '93 and 2001. We waited to begin picking until the 25th of September, which I believe was the right choice as we picked up an important addition to the phenolic ripeness levels as well as a bit more sugar, which ranged from a low of 12 to a high of 13.3%. In terms of vinification, we elected to extract as we normally do and we used anywhere from 50 to 100% whole clusters, which is more than what we used in 2001. Overall, I'm very excited about the vintage as it's a fine follow on to 2005 and actually more classic if not at the same quality level." I asked the younger Seysses his view of the vineyards, and in particular, the quality of the plant material in the acquired vineyards (see Issues 21 and 25 for more on these acquisitions) now that the domaine had a full year under their belt with the vines and he responded that "on the whole, we're very happy with what we have. Yes, there are some changes that we have made and will make but it's actually better than we had hoped. Moreover, the vines have made the transition to a different viticultural philosophy quite well, which is a huge relief as we honestly didn't know how the vines would react." Dujac fans will not want to miss these '06s as they really are most impressive and while they're not quite at the same ultimate level as their '05s, the difference is sufficiently minor that it should not dissuade you from adding them to your cellars with confidence. Moreover, they will provide more pleasure sooner, something that is never a bad thing. Allen Meadows; Burghound

Domaine Dujac is a house that has always been popular in Australia, largely due to the generous spirit of Jacques Seysses. He has influenced scores of young, passionate winemakers such as Jean-Pierre de Smet of l’Arlot.  However the most important reason why these wines are so popular is their great character.  For many of us Domaine Dujac wines are the essence of Burgundy.  As you taste up through the scale, more complexity and power are added to the mix, qualities which reach their zenith. Anyone who wants to discover the unique majesty of Burgundy that brings seasoned tasters to their knees should look no further than Domaine Dujac.

2004 MOREY ST.-DENIS “1ER CRU”: (this now contains only 25% young vine Clos de la Roche fruit as Seysses explains “we no longer have much young vine fruit.“; the balance is from several Morey 1ers, including Ruchots, Clos Sorbé, Millandes and Charrières”). A subtle trace of wood frames dark berry fruit and touches of earth, briar and iron that combine with rich, full and sweet flavours that offer a bit more phenolic ripeness and concentration as well as better finishing intensity. (88-90)/2012+ www.burghound.com

A pretty and distinctly more elegant nose of mostly red berry fruit, earth and hints of game-infused aromas introduces ripe, serious and beautifully pure flavors that are supported by very firm yet sophisticated tannins on the admirably long, dusty and mouth coating finish. This too needs ample time in bottle. Lovely. Tasted: Jan 01, 2009 Score: 90 Drink: 2016+ Issue 33 Allen Meadows; Burghound

Jacques Seysses' son Jeremy noted that 2006 "reminds me of the vintage conditions that we had in 2001. And the wines are similar as well as both produced classic cool Burgundian wines with pure fruit though the '06s have less tannin than other cool vintages like '91, '93 and 2001. We waited to begin picking until the 25th of September, which I believe was the right choice as we picked up an important addition to the phenolic ripeness levels as well as a bit more sugar, which ranged from a low of 12 to a high of 13.3%. In terms of vinification, we elected to extract as we normally do and we used anywhere from 50 to 100% whole clusters, which is more than what we used in 2001. Overall, I'm very excited about the vintage as it's a fine follow on to 2005 and actually more classic if not at the same quality level." I asked the younger Seysses his view of the vineyards, and in particular, the quality of the plant material in the acquired vineyards (see Issues 21 and 25 for more on these acquisitions) now that the domaine had a full year under their belt with the vines and he responded that "on the whole, we're very happy with what we have. Yes, there are some changes that we have made and will make but it's actually better than we had hoped. Moreover, the vines have made the transition to a different viticultural philosophy quite well, which is a huge relief as we honestly didn't know how the vines would react." Dujac fans will not want to miss these '06s as they really are most impressive and while they're not quite at the same ultimate level as their '05s, the difference is sufficiently minor that it should not dissuade you from adding them to your cellars with confidence. Moreover, they will provide more pleasure sooner, something that is never a bad thing. Allen Meadows; Burghound