Fermentation and maturing in oak barrels from France. Elegant aromas on the nose. Round and silky on the palate, this wine is very charming. Good ageing potential.

Estate grown, produced and bottled by Bouchard Père & Fils
Classification : Premier Cru
Location : Meursault - Côte de Beaune - Côte d’Or
Grape variety : 100% Chardonnay
Soil : Stony, clay and limestone with iron traces

Moderate wood frames exuberant and remarkably fresh and bright aromas of anise, crushed peach and citrus hints that dissolve into intense, round and mouth coating flavors blessed with ample dry extract and a delicious but impressively powerful finish. This is a big wine but not an inelegant wine that should reward 5 to 6 years of cellar time. (Allen Meadows - Burghound - 91 points)

More subtle wood toast and spice adds nuance to the ripe, elegant and pure aromas that are presently very reserved if not discreet with very fresh, intense and admirably detailed flavors that are less concentrated but more complex, all wrapped in a mouth coating and bone dry finish. Lovely in every sense. (Allen Meadows - Burghound - 91 points)

A subtly exotic and mildly spiced nose that mixes ripe yellow fruit aromas trimmed in just a bit of pain grillé that give way to rich, tautly muscled and powerful flavors that possess ample mid-palate concentration and plenty of dry extract that confers a textured character to the serious and admirably long finish. Also recommended. Tasted: Jul 01, 2008 Score: 92 Drink: 2012+ Comments: Outstanding! Issue 31 Allen Meadows; Burghound

Philippe Prost, Bouchard's winemaker, repeated that the "new cuvérie is a godsend in terms of being able to analyze quickly and efficiently what we are bringing in as well as to separate out specific parcels within vineyards and then include them or not later as each cuvée merits. We now can also move grapes, must and wine around with zero pumping, which is especially important with grapes as now we don't break the seeds, which in some vintages is critical because they're not always ripe and as such, they can be the source of bitterness. This was especially important in 2006 and 2007 whereas 2005 wasn't really as much of a test because the raw materials turned out to be much more robust and tolerant. In terms of the growing season, you really had to wait for phenolic maturity in the reds whereas it was important to harvest the whites early. In fact, it's interesting to note that for the first time since 1989, we started harvesting the whites before the reds! We began picking on September 18th for the chardonnay as it was easy to have surmaturité. The fruit was harvested under cool conditions and we had good if not truly exceptional cleanliness and relatively high sugars in chardonnay that mostly ranged between 13.5 and 14%. In retrospect, I am very happy that we got the whites in early because rot was a potential looming problem and the acidities were falling rapidly so by starting when we did we were able to avoid both problems. Yields were all over the place with some vineyards being relatively normal but others were low. As to the wines themselves, while there is no perfect parallel, I might compare the 2006 whites to the 2000s as they're similar in style." Prost went on to note that the '06s were bottled earlier than normal because they were taking up their wood quickly and in both colors and thus the decision was made that there was no point in risking the wines drying out in barrel. The quality of the Bouchard '06 whites is certainly very good to excellent and while the reds can't match the '05s, the '06 whites are every bit as good as their '05 counterparts though I hasten to point out that they possess very different personalities.

A stunningly pure and elegant nose of gorgeously scented white rose and green apple that also offers up subtle stone notes that continue onto the brilliantly delineated and almost pungently mineral middle weight flavors that are a study in class, subtlety and grace. There is an intensity and refinement here that allow everything to remain in perfect proportion on the chiseled and crystalline finish. A 'wow' wine. Tasted: Jul 01, 2008 Score: 94 Drink: 2013+ Comments: Sweet spot Outstanding! Issue 31 Allen Meadows; Burghound

Philippe Prost, Bouchard's winemaker, repeated that the "new cuvérie is a godsend in terms of being able to analyze quickly and efficiently what we are bringing in as well as to separate out specific parcels within vineyards and then include them or not later as each cuvée merits. We now can also move grapes, must and wine around with zero pumping, which is especially important with grapes as now we don't break the seeds, which in some vintages is critical because they're not always ripe and as such, they can be the source of bitterness. This was especially important in 2006 and 2007 whereas 2005 wasn't really as much of a test because the raw materials turned out to be much more robust and tolerant. In terms of the growing season, you really had to wait for phenolic maturity in the reds whereas it was important to harvest the whites early. In fact, it's interesting to note that for the first time since 1989, we started harvesting the whites before the reds! We began picking on September 18th for the chardonnay as it was easy to have surmaturité. The fruit was harvested under cool conditions and we had good if not truly exceptional cleanliness and relatively high sugars in chardonnay that mostly ranged between 13.5 and 14%. In retrospect, I am very happy that we got the whites in early because rot was a potential looming problem and the acidities were falling rapidly so by starting when we did we were able to avoid both problems. Yields were all over the place with some vineyards being relatively normal but others were low. As to the wines themselves, while there is no perfect parallel, I might compare the 2006 whites to the 2000s as they're similar in style." Prost went on to note that the '06s were bottled earlier than normal because they were taking up their wood quickly and in both colors and thus the decision was made that there was no point in risking the wines drying out in barrel. The quality of the Bouchard '06 whites is certainly very good to excellent and while the reds can't match the '05s, the '06 whites are every bit as good as their '05 counterparts though I hasten to point out that they possess very different personalities.

A cassis and black cherry nose that also displays some Porto notes in the best sense of the descriptor as there is no excess ripeness associated with it. The rich, full-bodied and serious medium-bodied flavors that display good underlying tension and fine length on the finish where again, the tannins are very firm. 88-91)/2017+Allen Meadows; Burghound

A slightly riper nose features a violet floral nose along with blue and red pinot fruit that precedes very rich and relatively powerful medium plus-bodied flavors that offer excellent volume and ample mouth coating sap and while the finish is not as precise, there is perhaps even better overall depth. A choice. Tasted: Apr 01, 2008 Score: 91 Drink: 2014+ Comments: Sweet spot Outstanding! Issue 30 Allen Meadows; Burghound

Philippe Prost, Bouchard's winemaker, repeated that the "new cuvérie is a godsend in terms of being able to analyze quickly and efficiently what we are bringing in as well as to separate out specific parcels within vineyards and then include them or not later as each cuvée merits. We now can also move grapes, must and wine around with zero pumping, which is especially important with grapes as now we don't break the seeds, which in some vintages is critical because they're not always ripe and as such, they can be the source of bitterness. This was especially important in 2006 and 2007 whereas 2005 wasn't really as much of a test because the raw materials turned out to be much more robust and tolerant. In terms of the growing season, you really had to wait for phenolic maturity in the reds whereas it was important to harvest the whites early. In fact, it's interesting to note that for the first time since 1989, we started harvesting the whites before the reds! We began picking on September 18th for the chardonnay as it was easy to have surmaturité. The fruit was harvested under cool conditions and we had good if not truly exceptional cleanliness and relatively high sugars in chardonnay that mostly ranged between 13.5 and 14%. In retrospect, I am very happy that we got the whites in early because rot was a potential looming problem and the acidities were falling rapidly so by starting when we did we were able to avoid both problems. Yields were all over the place with some vineyards being relatively normal but others were low. As to the wines themselves, while there is no perfect parallel, I might compare the 2006 whites to the 2000s as they're similar in style." Prost went on to note that the '06s were bottled earlier than normal because they were taking up their wood quickly and in both colors and thus the decision was made that there was no point in risking the wines drying out in barrel. The quality of the Bouchard '06 whites is certainly very good to excellent and while the reds can't match the '05s, the '06 whites are every bit as good as their '05 counterparts though I hasten to point out that they possess very different personalities.

An even riper but not surmature nose that is less elegant and aromatically complex, at least at present, features brooding aromas of black and blue berry plus black cherry and violets nuanced by hints of spice and warm earth merge into big, powerful and well-muscled flavors underpinned by impressive mid-palate concentration and dense but fine tannins, all wrapped in a dazzling long finish that is perfectly balanced. This will clearly require time to unfold but the raw material is indisputably here and like the Musigny, this is built for the very long haul. Tasted: Jan 01, 2008 Score: 95 Drink: 2020+ Issue 29 Allen Meadows

The always thoughtful enologist François Millet called 2005 a "very expressive vintage as the wines are already singing. The growing season was very dry which concentrated the berries as well as the phenolic maturity resulting in very impressive dry extract to liquid ratios. While it's hard to believe, there was not a lot of juice and the wines are almost as dense as they were in 2003. But it was of course much cooler which helped to preserve acidity and the pHs reflect it. The growing season wasn't 100% perfect as we suffered a bit of hail damage but it was so early on that it was more a question of quality than quantity. The harvest took place under ideal conditions and we brought in across all of our appellations about 30 hl/ha with excellent sugars that ranged between 13 and 13.5%. The aromas are very ripe but the acidity helps to keep them fresh and lends real vibrancy to the wines. One of the aspects that I very much like is that the aromas also are quite floral, which adds another element of aromatic complexity. Overall the '05s are big and powerful wines but they do not lack for elegance. The skins were so thick that I was actually afraid of making overly powerful and inelegant wines but happily, in my view they are very well balanced and should age well." While the de Vogüé '05s are clearly incredible wines, I can't say enough good things about how good their '04s have turned out. Indeed if an entire group of wines is considered, then the de Vogüé '04s would be on my very, very short list of candidates for wines of the vintage.

This too is quite restrained with almost exclusively red berry fruit and intense floral aromas that are high-toned and pure while complementing the supple, textured, dusty and extremely precise flavors that exude a quiet power on the brooding and linear finish that delivers outstanding length. This will require every bit of a decade to resolve the very firm structure. Tasted: Jan 01, 2008 Score: 90-93 Drink: 2016+ Issue 29 Allen Meadows; Burghound

The always thoughtful enologist François Millet called 2006 a "very seductive vintage. The wines all have concentrated extract of fruit noses and a beguiling freshness which when coupled with the excellent depth make for some very attractive wines, especially since the flavors are simultaneously frank and generous. The growing season was up and down as July was hotter than it was in 2003 yet that was rapidly replaced but a cool and wet August, which delayed maturities as much as July advanced them. September was quite warm as well with a vent du sud (south wind) drying out the vineyards and concentrating the berries. We began picking on September 21st and really didn't have any more sorting working than is typical here. Sugars were quite strong at between 12 and 13% and as the numbers suggest, the grapes really had no problems getting ripe. Overall, 2006 is a lovely vintage that will age more rapidly than the more structured, powerful and substantial 2005s." And speaking of the de Vogüé '05s, as my scores last year suggested, they truly are magnificent wines, fulfilling in bottle all of the promise they displayed from cask. And yes, the Musigny is potentially the greatest vintage for this fabled wine since at least the 1993 and in my view, probably the 1949, which obviously is a bold statement but I can't think of another one that rivals the '05. Time will tell of course and it's best to remain modest when predicting greatness in the young but if you see it at a price that looks attractive, I wouldn't give it much thought but just buy it. For what it's worth, there are more than 50 vintages reviewed of this wine in the database and very few come close.

A complex, penetrating and serious nose highlights ripe and spicy red and black fruit aromas set off by ample earth aromas where the intense earthiness is also reflected by the rich, full, sweet and powerful flavors that possess outstanding phenolic ripeness on the austere, brooding and altogether serious finish. Fans of the domaine should not fail to note that this is a "buy and forget" cellar candidate and this will require every bit of 15 years to reach full maturity and 20 would not surprise me. Tasted: Jan 01, 2008 Score: 91-94 Drink: 2021+ Comments: Don't miss! Issue 29

The always forthright and direct Yves Confuron (who is also the régisseur at Domaine de Courcel in Pommard), describes 2006 as "a much better vintage than some people are giving it credit for. The floraison occurred between the 10th and 15th of June and then there was a serious heat wave that lasted until the last week of July where there was some hail, particularly in Gevrey. The véraison was a bit later than usual, occurring around the 18th of August, which itself was cool and relatively humid if not actually rainy. I was concerned because even though the grapes were slowly adding sugar, phenolic ripening essentially stopped. Thankfully September was perfect and jump started the phenolic ripening again. We began picking on September 22nd and because the weather was quite stable, we took our time and harvested over fully 9 days. Sugars were high and we essentially had no chaptalization as virtually everything was picked at or above 13%. As always, we used 100% stems in the vinification and because 2006 produced classic wines, the tannins are quite fine, indeed in my view even finer than in 2001." Because the Confuron wines are always bottled without fining or filtration, the élevage here is necessarily long and the '05s were not bottled until August. As I have mentioned before, the Confuron style is for crafting old school burgs (they don't even own a destemmer) with long maceration times and almost two years in barrel. However, if you like the style, this is one of the very best addresses around and I found both their '05s and '06s to be extraordinarily good. Allen Meadows, Burghound
 

An equally ripe but more reserved nose of earthy and highly spicy mostly black fruit where there is a distinct sauvage nuance that introduces dense, textured and obviously concentrated flavors that also enjoy excellent ripeness of the structural elements on the serious and austere but hugely persistent finish. This is an extremely impressive effort that is built to age. Tasted: Jan 01, 2008 Score: 92-94 Drink: 2018+ Comments: Don't miss! Issue 29

The always forthright and direct Yves Confuron (who is also the régisseur at Domaine de Courcel in Pommard), describes 2006 as "a much better vintage than some people are giving it credit for. The floraison occurred between the 10th and 15th of June and then there was a serious heat wave that lasted until the last week of July where there was some hail, particularly in Gevrey. The véraison was a bit later than usual, occurring around the 18th of August, which itself was cool and relatively humid if not actually rainy. I was concerned because even though the grapes were slowly adding sugar, phenolic ripening essentially stopped. Thankfully September was perfect and jump started the phenolic ripening again. We began picking on September 22nd and because the weather was quite stable, we took our time and harvested over fully 9 days. Sugars were high and we essentially had no chaptalization as virtually everything was picked at or above 13%. As always, we used 100% stems in the vinification and because 2006 produced classic wines, the tannins are quite fine, indeed in my view even finer than in 2001." Because the Confuron wines are always bottled without fining or filtration, the élevage here is necessarily long and the '05s were not bottled until August. As I have mentioned before, the Confuron style is for crafting old school burgs (they don't even own a destemmer) with long maceration times and almost two years in barrel. However, if you like the style, this is one of the very best addresses around and I found both their '05s and '06s to be extraordinarily good. Allen Meadows, Burghound

Here the fruit profile is slightly riper but loses no sense of freshness or expressiveness with both earth and spice nuances that add aromatic depth and this depth continues onto the rich, full, vibrant and nicely powerful flavors that possess excellent volume yet despite the size, this is actually quite refined with the best phenolic ripeness to this point. In a word, terrific and definitely recommended. Tasted: Jan 01, 2008 Score: 90-93 Drink: 2016+ Comments: Sweet spot Outstanding! Issue 29

The always forthright and direct Yves Confuron (who is also the régisseur at Domaine de Courcel in Pommard), describes 2006 as "a much better vintage than some people are giving it credit for. The floraison occurred between the 10th and 15th of June and then there was a serious heat wave that lasted until the last week of July where there was some hail, particularly in Gevrey. The véraison was a bit later than usual, occurring around the 18th of August, which itself was cool and relatively humid if not actually rainy. I was concerned because even though the grapes were slowly adding sugar, phenolic ripening essentially stopped. Thankfully September was perfect and jump started the phenolic ripening again. We began picking on September 22nd and because the weather was quite stable, we took our time and harvested over fully 9 days. Sugars were high and we essentially had no chaptalization as virtually everything was picked at or above 13%. As always, we used 100% stems in the vinification and because 2006 produced classic wines, the tannins are quite fine, indeed in my view even finer than in 2001." Because the Confuron wines are always bottled without fining or filtration, the élevage here is necessarily long and the '05s were not bottled until August. As I have mentioned before, the Confuron style is for crafting old school burgs (they don't even own a destemmer) with long maceration times and almost two years in barrel. However, if you like the style, this is one of the very best addresses around and I found both their '05s and '06s to be extraordinarily good. Allen Meadows, Burghound

This is every bit as elegant as the Lavaut though not as cool with an expansive nose of ripe red berry fruit, spice hints and a touch of wet stone that is also reflected by the juicy and seductively textured middle weight flavors that maintain a fine sense of focus through to the persistent finish. In the past, the Mortet Beaux Bruns has tended to be more of a power than finesse wine and this is the most elegant version that I can recall though in 2007 it's lacking a bit of overall depth. Drink 2013+; 88-91 Points, Allen Meadows, Burghound Issue 33 Jan 2009

The late Denis Mortet’s son Arnaud has now taken over completely the responsibility for the vines and winemaking. The young Mortet is already renowned in Burgundy for the quality of his vineyard work and grower after grower spoke admiringly of how Arnaud has picked up right where his father left off. I should add that compliments from colleagues when it concerns vineyard work are given sparingly in Burgundy but the two domaines that are routinely mentioned are Mortet and Groffier… Mortet, who had already been vinifying under his father's tutelage, has begun to change the approach slightly while careful not to suggest that his father's approach was wrong, noting that "I want more elegance and finesse coupled with less extraction. The 2007 vintage gave us round wines and fine tannins and I reasoned that there was no reason to fight what Mother Nature had given us. So, I did a relatively soft vinification and while I had already reduced the amount of new wood in 2006, I reduced it again in 2007 and may do so again in 2008. Overall, the 2007s are wines of elegance and terroir plus they are very pinot in basic character." Mortet explained that the malos were very long in 2007 and many wines had only just finished. This, coupled with the reduction in new wood [new wood is more porous, permitting a better external exchange of oxygen and thus less reduction], explicates why many of the wines display various stages of reduction. The Mortet '07s came in at or above my predicted ranges and the sweet spot is the group of Gevrey 1ers as they are really lovely wines.