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Chablis

William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2009

It's arguable that in 2009 that this is the most elegant and refined wine in the range as the ultra pure and airy white flower, citrus zest, iodine and oyster shell aromas complement to perfection the extremely fresh and silkily textured flavors blessed with ample amounts of acid-buffering dry extract that culminate in an explosive yet harmonious and sophisticated finale with perhaps a bit less youthful austerity than usual. I very much like this. (92-95 points) Drink: 2016+ Comments: Don't miss! Allen Meadows; Burghound

Régisseur Didier Séguier describes 2009 as a vintage of "great maturity. The August heat was really something though because the vines had stockpiled sufficient water reserves in July, there wasn't necessarily a lot of hydric stress. We did have an attack of caterpillars that eat buds and in some parcels they destroyed as much as 20 to 25% of the potential crop, which was particularly pronounced on the right bank. This reduction in yields of between 30 to 50 hl/ha also allowed the vines to accelerate the maturities of the fruit, which certainly had an impact on quality. On the plus side, when we began picking on the 14th of September, the crop was extremely clean and we essentially lost nothing because of sorting losses. Sugars were very good at between 12 to 13% and chaptalization was essentially nil. The post-malo pHs were in the 3.2 to 3.4 range, which is about the same as we had in 2000 and 2002. As to the wines, they are extremely aromatic, rich and fleshy with very good freshness and vibrancy and they should be very popular. 2009 is not in the classic style of 2007 or 2008 but they will be approachable sooner." As to the now in-bottle 2008s, they have confirmed the enormous potential that I saw from cask last year and as the scores and comments suggest, there are some brilliant wines among them. Note that Séguier indicated that the '09s would be bottled about two months earlier than the '08s were with a free SO2 level of approximately 32 ppm. Note further that effective with the 2008 vintage the label for the Vaulorent no longer indicates Fourchaume on it; previously it said "Fourchaume - Vignoble de Vaulorent".  Allen Meadows; Burghound

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Price: $109.00


William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir 2004

Pale yellow-green. Knockout nose combines citrus skin, spearmint, coriander, quinine and powdered stone, plus a note of toasty oak. Densely packed, sweet and ripe, with suggestions of ginger and quinine. Not especially complex but creamy and very ripe. Finishes with impressive gingery length. 91-93 Points; Stephen Tanzer

Wine Advocate #165 (Jun 2006)  Pierre Rovani 93 points  Drink 2008-2015. The nose of the 2004 Chablis Vaudesir (domaine) displays aromas reminiscent of quartz, nectar, sea salt, minerals, and candied lemons. Though youthfully tight, this wine’s enormous depth of fruit, concentration, and magnificently pure, lengthy finish are unmistakable. Its flavor profile, composed of chalk, stones, and pears, will require cellaring before fully blossoming. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015.
 
Note: All the William Fevre wines tasted for this report are “domaine” bottlings, from the estate’s 40 hectares of vines (98.84 acres), which is clearly marked on the label. There are also Maison William Fevre – negociant – bottlings, none of which were tasted.
 
The rapidity with which Joseph Henriot turned around this once moribund estate is remarkable. Under the supervision and winemaking of super-talented Didier Seguier (from Cucq-Les-Vielmur in France’s southwest, near Castres), Domaine William Fevre has been catapulted into the top echelon of Chablis’s producers (and if you don’t believe me, just ask Vincent Dauvissat or Bernard Raveneau).
 
Didier Seguier attributes the estate’s success in 2004 to two key factors, “the fact that we treated the vines early and therefore did not have oidium problems,” and, just as importantly, “our yields were lower than most because this estate’s vines are over 40 years old and cannot produce plethoric quantities.” On average, across the entire estate, William Fevre harvested 60-65 hectoliters per hectares, 10-15% less than two of this region’s most famous stars, Vincent Dauvissat and the Raveneau brothers. Though Seguier loves his 2004s (“They are precise, classical Chablis.”), his preference is for the 2002s, “the finest vintage I’ve experienced.”

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William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir 2007

This is even more elegant than it usually is, which is saying something as there is a good argument to be made that the Fèvre Vaudésir is the current reference standard for the vineyard though I hasten to add that it's by no means an open and shut case. A pure and almost delicate nose that is decidedly more austere than virtually any of the preceding wines opens with a classic green fruit aromatic profile brimming with Chablis character that is followed by rich, full, naturally sweet and equally powerful flavors of simply incredible purity and focus as they finish with outstanding intensity, indeed this too is borderline painful as this early stage. This is a dramatic wine yet perfectly composed with a pronounced stony quality and the backend is bone dry. Succinctly put, this is a real stunner. Tasted: Oct 01, 2008 Score: 93-95 points Drink: 2013+ Comments: Don't miss! Issue 32 Allen Meadows; Burghound

The Vintage: Fevre 2007 – “A unique vintage”: Régisseur Didier Séguier describes 2007 as “a unique vintage. April was the hottest month that the region has seen in over 80 years with temperatures exceeding 40° C (104° F) and it was extremely dry as well. As a result, the vineyards were at least 3 weeks more advanced than usual and flowering was finished by the end of May. Unfortunately, there was hail and we were hit by 3 of the 4 hail storms that hit Chablis in 2007. The worst damage for us was done in Montée de Tonnerre and Monts de Milieu though there was scattered damage in other vineyards. Then, the weather abruptly turned and July and August were cool and damp yet the health of the grapes remained relatively good with minimal rot pressure. The ban de vendange (officially mandated harvesting date) was declared on September 1st but we didn’t begin picking until the 6th and even then only in the hail-damaged vineyards due to their much lower crop loads. We then stopped until the 9th and picked under ideal conditions through the 16th as there was no need to rush. The skins were thick and the grapes healthy, even in the hailed on sectors.

We did a slightly longer lees settling than normal just to be sure but other than that, it was a normal vinification. Sugars were varied but essentially good, coming in between 10 and 12% with acidities that were comparable to 2004, which is to say post-malo pHs of 3.15 to 3.3. The alcoholic fermentations were even and everything finished within the first three weeks. The malos also proceeded more or less normally. We have already begun bottling some wines and will finish everything, including the grands crus, by the end of July. In terms of the wines themselves, despite the obvious similarities to 2004, 2007 is riper though both vintages absolutely respect the classification hierarchy almost perfectly. The two vintages are also stylistically similar and possess excellent aging potential. I like the 2007 vintage a lot as the wines have plenty of classic Chablis character, which should please purists.  Allen Meadows; Burghound

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Price: was $149.99 now $109.00


Bottles in stock: 7
William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir 2008

From two separate parcels of vines, the larger of which is in the heart of the "amphitheater" from which the finest examples of Vaudésir originate. Extremely discreet notes of wood set off the ripest nose among these grands crus in 2008 with orchard fruit and pure citrus aromas leading to impressively precise big-bodied and powerful flavors brimming with dry extract and more minerality than usual on the refined, intense and hugely long finish. A wine of class and grace but with no lack of muscle. Tasted: Oct 01, 2009 Score: 93-95 Points; Drink: 2015+ Comments: Don't miss! Allen Meadows; Burghoundmore
Price: was $139.99 now $109.00


Bottles in stock: 6
William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir 2009

A mildly exotic nose that is ripe yet airy showcases aromas of orange peel, peach and hints of roasted nut and iodine leads to rich, even opulent medium plus weight flavors that are delicious, round and strikingly persistent on the mouthcoating finish. However, in the same fashion as the Grenouilles, this seems to have less complexity than I am used to seeing though this may come in time. (91-93 points) Drink: 2015+ Allen Meadows; Burghound

Régisseur Didier Séguier describes 2009 as a vintage of "great maturity. The August heat was really something though because the vines had stockpiled sufficient water reserves in July, there wasn't necessarily a lot of hydric stress. We did have an attack of caterpillars that eat buds and in some parcels they destroyed as much as 20 to 25% of the potential crop, which was particularly pronounced on the right bank. This reduction in yields of between 30 to 50 hl/ha also allowed the vines to accelerate the maturities of the fruit, which certainly had an impact on quality. On the plus side, when we began picking on the 14th of September, the crop was extremely clean and we essentially lost nothing because of sorting losses. Sugars were very good at between 12 to 13% and chaptalization was essentially nil. The post-malo pHs were in the 3.2 to 3.4 range, which is about the same as we had in 2000 and 2002. As to the wines, they are extremely aromatic, rich and fleshy with very good freshness and vibrancy and they should be very popular. 2009 is not in the classic style of 2007 or 2008 but they will be approachable sooner." As to the now in-bottle 2008s, they have confirmed the enormous potential that I saw from cask last year and as the scores and comments suggest, there are some brilliant wines among them. Note that Séguier indicated that the '09s would be bottled about two months earlier than the '08s were with a free SO2 level of approximately 32 ppm. Note further that effective with the 2008 vintage the label for the Vaulorent no longer indicates Fourchaume on it; previously it said "Fourchaume - Vignoble de Vaulorent".  Allen Meadows; Burghound

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Price: $109.00


William Fevre Domaine Chablis 2008

From Domaine fruit! A slightly riper nose features notes of mineral reduction, seaweed and green fruit where the minerality is also picked up by the detailed, pure and intense medium-bodied flavors that possess good mid-palate density and solid length on the balanced finish. While not truly special, there is just more here than with the Champs Royaux. Tasted: Oct 01, 2009 Score: 88 Points; Drink: 2011+ Allen Meadows; Burghound

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Price: $39.99


Bottles in stock: 12
William Fevre Petit Chablis 2008

William Fèvre came from a long line of great winemakers. William founded the Domaine de la Maladière and announced his first harvest in 1959. For many years William Fèvre keenly worked each plot to make superb wines with a generous personality reflecting the superiority of site and soil. In 1998 the venerable Henriot of Champagne acquired the estate. Today, Domaine William Fèvre releases a wide range of indisputably fine Chablis, highly prized for their expression of the most subtle variations within the grand Cru of Chablis

The success that Chablis has enjoyed over the centuries is due in no small part to the extreme variations of temperature over the vineyards. Also critical to their distinct character is the marriage between Chardonnay and local terroir. A matrimony of rich fruit and effulgent minerality, the wines express themselves in four appellations, Petit Chablis being the tinyest at 650 hectares. Grapes are hand picked and put in small crates, the bunches are rigorously sorted out, pressings are short, the must carefully settled, and a fine balance is established according to the vintage for the balance of vinification between vat and cask. The proportion of new oak is kept at a minimum to avoid dampening the subtle variations of terroir

Petit Chablis helps us to take a first step into the world of fine Chablis. William Fevre emanates fruity and floral bouquets that are marked by distinct mineral notes and great freshness. Hazelnut aromas, expressions of hay and of autumn, cheeky nuances of seaweed and bark, there is magic in the wine's ability to mate the disparate elements into a union which represents a character of it's own. The flavours flow freely onto the palate, a wine of marvelous clarity and long dry fruit, depth and purity. Satiating flavours of flint and of minerals, flowers and pears, lean and crisp, decent fruit, spice and honey in a light bodied and lively wine, inimitably suited to the best seafood, especially oysters

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Price: $24.99

Min. buy 3 bottles
Bottles in stock: 2
William Fevre Petit Chablis 2009

The success that Chablis has enjoyed over the centuries is due in no small part to the extreme variations of temperature over the vineyards. Also critical to their distinct character is the marriage between Chardonnay and local terroir. A matrimony of rich fruit and effulgent minerality, the wines express themselves in four appellations, Petit Chablis being the tiniest at 650 hectares. Grapes are handpicked and put in small crates, the bunches are rigorously sorted out, pressings are short, the must carefully settled, and a fine balance is established according to the vintage for the balance of vinification between vat and cask. The proportion of new oak is kept at a minimum to avoid dampening the subtle variations of terroir

William Fèvre came from a long line of great winemakers. William founded the Domaine de la Maladière and announced his first harvest in 1959. For many years William Fèvre keenly worked each plot to make superb wines with a generous personality reflecting the superiority of site and soil. In 1998 the venerable Henriot of Champagne acquired the estate. Today, Domaine William Fèvre releases a wide range of indisputably fine Chablis, highly prized for their expression of the most subtle variations within the grand Cru of Chablis

Petit Chablis helps us to take a first step into the world of fine Chablis. William Fevre emanates fruity and floral bouquets that are marked by distinct mineral notes and great freshness. Hazelnut aromas, expressions of hay and of autumn, cheeky nuances of seaweed and bark, there is magic in the wine's ability to mate the disparate elements into a union which represents a character of its own. The flavours flow freely onto the palate, a wine of marvelous clarity and long dry fruit, depth and purity. Satiating flavours of flint and of minerals, flowers and pears, lean and crisp, decent fruit, spice and honey in a light bodied and lively wine, inimitably suited to the best seafood, especially oysters

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Price: $24.99

Min. buy 3 bottles
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