Billaud-Simon is one of the great domaines of Chablis which dates from 1815 following the Napoleonic wars. Today, it is run by Bernard Billaud-Simon and his nephew Samuel. They have 20 hectares of exceptional vineyard sites with a combination of great vineyard sites, the latest winemaking technology and 95 years of family know-how crafting some of the regions finest wines. It has always been my contention that in France, the entry level wines in the great years are very much worth seeking out in the great years and avoiding at all costs in the poorer ones.

It is almost selling the Billaud-Simon Chablis 2009 short by recommending it as a great introduction to Chablis as even the seasoned Chardonnay drinker will lap this up. It is vinified and aged in stainless steel in order to express unique terroir and purity; the goal is to produce a wine which shows minerality and raciness as well as immense freshness even in the richest of vintages such as 2009. This is an absolute mission accomplished and it is not hard to see why this excited the first lady of wine Jancis Robison MW: “Scented, rather ethereal nose. Dry and racy with a really delicate texture that gets the saliva flowing. Some sucky-stony character. Bravo!”

A Moreau family exclusivity from with-in the Grand cru Les Clos. This small plot of Grand cru was purchased from the Hospice in Chablis in 1904. From vines aged 25 years old. “Powerful but reticent aromas of citrus peel and crushed stone. Distinctly fatter and sweeter but quite stony in the mouth, then dry on the back, even austere. This seems sweet, notes Christian Moreau, but it's actually very low in residual sugar. Serious, backward wine, finishing stony and quite dry. I'd give this at least five years. The Clos des Hospices, located low on the hill and therefore featuring a bit more humidity, normally does best in dry years like 2003 and 2005, notes Moreau.” 92-94 Steve Tanzer Nov/Dec 2006

From a .41 ha parcel located at the bottom of the hill in Les Clos. The first and only wine to display any reduction and it's enough to knock the nose down. The flavors however, while essentially quite similar to those of the "regular" cuvée of Les Clos possess even more depth and power with perhaps the best balance, depth, length and overall sense of harmony of any of the Moreau '07s. The difference is subtle but it's there. A wow wine. Tasted: Oct 01, 2008 Score: 93-95 Points; Drink: 2014+ Comments: Don't miss! Issue 32; Allen Meadows; Burghound

This 12.5 ha domaine is directed by Christian Moreau and his son Fabiènne describe the 2007 vintage as one where the growing season was "jump started by a very not April that ultimately caused the vines to be almost one month in advance of their normal development. The summer however was not pretty and we had a bit of hail damage in Vaillons as it hit one side of the vineyard but other than that, we were fortunate. We began picking on the 8th of September, which is earlier than some but it's due to the fact that we have mostly old vines that naturally regulate yields and tend to be ready to pick 4 to 5 days earlier than young vines. We had less yield than we had in 2004 with good sugars as there was very little chaptalization. The malos were very long as there was quite a bit of malic acidity but long malos are generally a good sign as the wines are full of gas and thus protected. As to the wines themselves, they're like slightly richer 2004s with excellent transparency, balance and plenty of energy. Our general policy is not to stir the lees though we will upon occasion. In the case of 2007 we felt that the wines were naturally rich enough and thus we did no lees stirring at all". I have said it before but it bears repeating: the quality here is so good that Chablis now has, along with Domaine William Fèvre, another leading light to add to the region's traditional stars of Raveneau and Dauvissat. Allen Meadows; Burghound

An almost identical nose introduces bigger, richer and more powerful flavors that also display buckets of extract and perhaps even more power if not more length or depth. This too should be spectacular in time as the balance is impeccable. Tasted: Oct 01, 2009; Score: 92-94; Drink: 2014+ Comments: Don't miss! Issue 36; Allen Meadows; Burghound

This 12.5 ha domaine is directed by Christian Moreau and his son Fabiènne describe the 2007 vintage as one where the growing season was "jump started by a very not April that ultimately caused the vines to be almost one month in advance of their normal development. The summer however was not pretty and we had a bit of hail damage in Vaillons as it hit one side of the vineyard but other than that, we were fortunate. We began picking on the 8th of September, which is earlier than some but it's due to the fact that we have mostly old vines that naturally regulate yields and tend to be ready to pick 4 to 5 days earlier than young vines. We had less yield than we had in 2004 with good sugars as there was very little chaptalization. The malos were very long as there was quite a bit of malic acidity but long malos are generally a good sign as the wines are full of gas and thus protected. As to the wines themselves, they're like slightly richer 2004s with excellent transparency, balance and plenty of energy. Our general policy is not to stir the lees though we will upon occasion. In the case of 2007 we felt that the wines were naturally rich enough and thus we did no lees stirring at all". I have said it before but it bears repeating: the quality here is so good that Chablis now has, along with Domaine William Fèvre, another leading light to add to the region's traditional stars of Raveneau and Dauvissat. Allen Meadows; Burghound

This is perhaps the most aromatically elegant wine in the range today with its airy, pure and layered nose of white flower, lemon peel, hint of wood spice, white peach and oyster shell nuances that seem even stronger on the impressively scaled broad-shouldered flavors that possess a beguiling texture as well as an almost painfully intense, palate staining finish that is bone dry. In a word, gorgeous. Tasted: Oct 01, 2008 Score: 92-95 Drink: 2013+ Comments: Don't miss! Issue 32 Allen Meadows; Burghound

This 12.5 ha domaine is directed by Christian Moreau and his son Fabiènne describe the 2007 vintage as one where the growing season was "jump started by a very not April that ultimately caused the vines to be almost one month in advance of their normal development. The summer however was not pretty and we had a bit of hail damage in Vaillons as it hit one side of the vineyard but other than that, we were fortunate. We began picking on the 8th of September, which is earlier than some but it's due to the fact that we have mostly old vines that naturally regulate yields and tend to be ready to pick 4 to 5 days earlier than young vines. We had less yield than we had in 2004 with good sugars as there was very little chaptalization. The malos were very long as there was quite a bit of malic acidity but long malos are generally a good sign as the wines are full of gas and thus protected. As to the wines themselves, they're like slightly richer 2004s with excellent transparency, balance and plenty of energy. Our general policy is not to stir the lees though we will upon occasion. In the case of 2007 we felt that the wines were naturally rich enough and thus we did no lees stirring at all". I have said it before but it bears repeating: the quality here is so good that Chablis now has, along with Domaine William Fèvre, another leading light to add to the region's traditional stars of Raveneau and Dauvissat.

Here the nose is also distinctly cool and admirably pure with notes of fresh acacia blossom and crushed stone notes that complement the equally mineral-suffused middle weight flavors that possess superb intensity and stunning length where the finish really coats the palate with dry extract. Terrific. Tasted: Oct 01, 2009; Score: 92-94; Drink: 2014+ Comments: Don't miss! Issue 36; Allen Meadows; Burghound

This 12.5 ha domaine is directed by Christian Moreau and his son Fabiènne describe the 2007 vintage as one where the growing season was "jump started by a very not April that ultimately caused the vines to be almost one month in advance of their normal development. The summer however was not pretty and we had a bit of hail damage in Vaillons as it hit one side of the vineyard but other than that, we were fortunate. We began picking on the 8th of September, which is earlier than some but it's due to the fact that we have mostly old vines that naturally regulate yields and tend to be ready to pick 4 to 5 days earlier than young vines. We had less yield than we had in 2004 with good sugars as there was very little chaptalization. The malos were very long as there was quite a bit of malic acidity but long malos are generally a good sign as the wines are full of gas and thus protected. As to the wines themselves, they're like slightly richer 2004s with excellent transparency, balance and plenty of energy. Our general policy is not to stir the lees though we will upon occasion. In the case of 2007 we felt that the wines were naturally rich enough and thus we did no lees stirring at all". I have said it before but it bears repeating: the quality here is so good that Chablis now has, along with Domaine William Fèvre, another leading light to add to the region's traditional stars of Raveneau and Dauvissat.

Vines planted 1934. A smoky if slightly reduced nose is hard to evaluate except to say that the fruit seems quite ripe. By contrast, the textured, concentrated and entirely serious medium plus weight flavors also possess plenty of dry extract with a bit more overall power and depth. This is a wine of grace and harmony. Tasted: Oct 01, 2009; Score: 90-92; Drink: 2013+ Comments: Sweet spot Outstanding! Issue 36; Allen Meadows; Burghound

This 12.5 ha domaine is directed by Christian Moreau and his son Fabiènne describe the 2007 vintage as one where the growing season was "jump started by a very not April that ultimately caused the vines to be almost one month in advance of their normal development. The summer however was not pretty and we had a bit of hail damage in Vaillons as it hit one side of the vineyard but other than that, we were fortunate. We began picking on the 8th of September, which is earlier than some but it's due to the fact that we have mostly old vines that naturally regulate yields and tend to be ready to pick 4 to 5 days earlier than young vines. We had less yield than we had in 2004 with good sugars as there was very little chaptalization. The malos were very long as there was quite a bit of malic acidity but long malos are generally a good sign as the wines are full of gas and thus protected. As to the wines themselves, they're like slightly richer 2004s with excellent transparency, balance and plenty of energy. Our general policy is not to stir the lees though we will upon occasion. In the case of 2007 we felt that the wines were naturally rich enough and thus we did no lees stirring at all". I have said it before but it bears repeating: the quality here is so good that Chablis now has, along with Domaine William Fèvre, another leading light to add to the region's traditional stars of Raveneau and Dauvissat. Allen Meadows; Burghound

The expressive nose screams Chablis and blind, it would be virtually impossible to mistake this for anything else as the aromas are spot on classic with the green fruit, tidal pool, iodine and salty character, all of which are also reflected by the extremely fresh and at this point, still completely primary flavors that are nicely rich and full yet retain a fine sense of underlying detail that is supported by a firm acid spine on the understand, driving and impeccably balanced finish. This isn't quite as complex as the Blanchots but I think that it will ultimately be every bit as good. We'll see in a few years. Tasted: Oct 01, 2008 Score: 91-94 Drink: 2013+ Comments: Don't miss! Issue 32 Allen Meadows; Burghound

This 12.5 ha domaine is directed by Christian Moreau and his son Fabiènne describe the 2007 vintage as one where the growing season was "jump started by a very not April that ultimately caused the vines to be almost one month in advance of their normal development. The summer however was not pretty and we had a bit of hail damage in Vaillons as it hit one side of the vineyard but other than that, we were fortunate. We began picking on the 8th of September, which is earlier than some but it's due to the fact that we have mostly old vines that naturally regulate yields and tend to be ready to pick 4 to 5 days earlier than young vines. We had less yield than we had in 2004 with good sugars as there was very little chaptalization. The malos were very long as there was quite a bit of malic acidity but long malos are generally a good sign as the wines are full of gas and thus protected. As to the wines themselves, they're like slightly richer 2004s with excellent transparency, balance and plenty of energy. Our general policy is not to stir the lees though we will upon occasion. In the case of 2007 we felt that the wines were naturally rich enough and thus we did no lees stirring at all". I have said it before but it bears repeating: the quality here is so good that Chablis now has, along with Domaine William Fèvre, another leading light to add to the region's traditional stars of Raveneau and Dauvissat.

A discreet touch of wood sets off pure and quite cool green fruit laced with abundant notes of wet stone and tidal pool hints that are also picked up by the textured, intense and precise flavors brimming with extract on the precise and energetic finish that is at once elegant yet displays the hallmark Valmur austerity. This is impressive. Tasted: Oct 01, 2009; Score: 92-94; Drink: 2014+ Comments: Don't miss! Issue 36; Allen Meadows; Burghound

This 12.5 ha domaine is directed by Christian Moreau and his son Fabiènne describe the 2007 vintage as one where the growing season was "jump started by a very not April that ultimately caused the vines to be almost one month in advance of their normal development. The summer however was not pretty and we had a bit of hail damage in Vaillons as it hit one side of the vineyard but other than that, we were fortunate. We began picking on the 8th of September, which is earlier than some but it's due to the fact that we have mostly old vines that naturally regulate yields and tend to be ready to pick 4 to 5 days earlier than young vines. We had less yield than we had in 2004 with good sugars as there was very little chaptalization. The malos were very long as there was quite a bit of malic acidity but long malos are generally a good sign as the wines are full of gas and thus protected. As to the wines themselves, they're like slightly richer 2004s with excellent transparency, balance and plenty of energy. Our general policy is not to stir the lees though we will upon occasion. In the case of 2007 we felt that the wines were naturally rich enough and thus we did no lees stirring at all". I have said it before but it bears repeating: the quality here is so good that Chablis now has, along with Domaine William Fèvre, another leading light to add to the region's traditional stars of Raveneau and Dauvissat.

55 + year old vines. shows the greatest depth and minerality of all the Pommier wines. Great purity of fruit and depth of flavours. Impressive in its youth although has the capacity to age.

A deft touch of wood highlights an airy and perfumed nose of various citrus aromas, particularly lemon, that introduce beautifully elegant and understated middle weight flavors that offer excellent detail on the tight and moderately structured finish. Lovely stuff. Tasted: Oct 01, 2006 Score: 90 Drink: 2009+ Issue 24

Denis Pommier reports that 2005 "was perhaps the cleanest harvest that I have ever seen. There was no rot at all and virtually no botrytis. Sugars climbed very rapidly just before the harvest and averaged a remarkable 13 to 13.5% on yields of 40 to 45 hl/ha. We began picking on September 24th and were able to bring the crop in quickly as harvest conditions were ideal. I'm not sure why but the primary fermentations took a long time to finish but the malos were normal. Overall, while I believe the '05s are very good, I don't think they'll quite equal the '02s." As the scores suggest, Pommier continues to make real progress and I liked selected wines in both the '04 and the '05 vintages. Burghound.com

Lean and stony, yet has purity. Lemon, apple and mineral flavors are wound around a steely core. Long and a tad green on the finish. Best from 2009 through 2020. 650 cases made. –BS Score: 90 Wine Spectator

A hint of reduction detracts mildly from the expressive green fruit nose nuanced by hints of the exotic that gives way to exceptionally rich and explosive flavors that seem to go on and on. This is not a particularly elegant wine but for those who enjoy Chablis that makes a statement, this delivers what you're looking for because while this isn't subtle it is dramatic as the intensity is almost painful. Tasted: Oct 01, 2006 Score: 92 Drink: 2010+ Issue 24 Allen Meadows; Burghound

As usual, most of the Brocard family, including enologist Clothide Davenne, were on hand to talk about the most recent vintage and their various new projects. In particular, Brocard's son Julien, who is in charge of viticulture for the domaine, is enthusiastically driving to convert the vineyards to biodynamic farming, noting that "we presently have 35 of our 135 ha farmed this way and we hope to have the rest converted over the next 5 to 7 years." Additionally, as noted above under Domaine Azo, the Brocard family has purchased it outright. As to the 2004 vintage, Brocard told me that they waited until October 3rd to begin picking. "The second half of July and virtually all of August were overcast and gloomy with an absence of both the necessary heat and luminosity to really ripen the grapes adequately. Thanks to a superb September however, the grapes rapidly ripened and while we probably could have begun picking on the ban de vendange (declared September 29th), we decided to push our luck and wait a few more days. We were rewarded with sugars that ranged from 11.5 to 12.5% and near perfect acidities. Yields were generous after the tiny 2003 harvest, coming in between 60 and 70 hl/ha. While perhaps not ideal, this is a level for chardonnay that can still provide for excellent quality provided that you don't press too hard. We pressed gently and because of a fairly severe attack of oidium, which we managed to contain, we still decided that it was best to do a longer débourbage than usual to avoid any contamination. I quite like the vintage because it has plenty of classic Chablis character and excellent balance, which should permit the wines to age very well over the medium term." The Brocard '04s offer much to like and for those who love classically styled Chablis, these will not disappoint. The present plan is to bottle between July and November.

As an aside, Brocard is emphatically in the no oak camp as almost 100% stainless steel is used from start to finish (though a few wines see a bit of oak) and this approach seems to have been particularly successful in 2003. The Domaine Sainte-Claire designation is used to indicate a 15th Century church that is directly adjacent to the state-of-the-art winery.

A bright, elegant and perfumed nose of lemon peel and white flowers cut with menthol and exotic fruit notes complement big, rich, powerful yet refined, linear and pure chiseled medium full flavors that possess impeccable Chablis character, in particular oyster shell and iodine hints, all wrapped in an almost painfully intense finish of serious length and punch. Wonderful juice of exciting potential but this is built for the patient. Tasted: Oct 01, 2006 Score: 93 Drink: 2011+ Issue 24 Allen Meadows; Burghound

An open, elegant style, combining apple, lemon verbena and smoke notes with a juicy structure. Balanced and fine, with depth. Best from 2007 through 2015. 1,000 cases made. –BS Score: 90 Wine Spectator

As usual, most of the Brocard family, including enologist Clothide Davenne, were on hand to talk about the most recent vintage and their various new projects. In particular, Brocard's son Julien, who is in charge of viticulture for the domaine, is enthusiastically driving to convert the vineyards to biodynamic farming, noting that "we presently have 35 of our 135 ha farmed this way and we hope to have the rest converted over the next 5 to 7 years." Additionally, as noted above under Domaine Azo, the Brocard family has purchased it outright. As to the 2004 vintage, Brocard told me that they waited until October 3rd to begin picking. "The second half of July and virtually all of August were overcast and gloomy with an absence of both the necessary heat and luminosity to really ripen the grapes adequately. Thanks to a superb September however, the grapes rapidly ripened and while we probably could have begun picking on the ban de vendange (declared September 29th), we decided to push our luck and wait a few more days. We were rewarded with sugars that ranged from 11.5 to 12.5% and near perfect acidities. Yields were generous after the tiny 2003 harvest, coming in between 60 and 70 hl/ha. While perhaps not ideal, this is a level for chardonnay that can still provide for excellent quality provided that you don't press too hard. We pressed gently and because of a fairly severe attack of oidium, which we managed to contain, we still decided that it was best to do a longer débourbage than usual to avoid any contamination. I quite like the vintage because it has plenty of classic Chablis character and excellent balance, which should permit the wines to age very well over the medium term." The Brocard '04s offer much to like and for those who love classically styled Chablis, these will not disappoint. The present plan is to bottle between July and November.

As an aside, Brocard is emphatically in the no oak camp as almost 100% stainless steel is used from start to finish (though a few wines see a bit of oak) and this approach seems to have been particularly successful in 2003. The Domaine Sainte-Claire designation is used to indicate a 15th Century church that is directly adjacent to the state-of-the-art winery.

As usual, most of the Brocard family, including enologist Clothide Davenne, were on hand to talk about the most recent vintage and their various new projects. In particular, Brocard's son Julien, who is in charge of viticulture for the domaine, is enthusiastically driving to convert the vineyards to biodynamic farming, noting that "we presently have 35 of our 135 ha farmed this way and we hope to have the rest converted over the next 5 to 7 years." Additionally, as noted above under Domaine Azo, the Brocard family has purchased it outright. As to the 2004 vintage, Brocard told me that they waited until October 3rd to begin picking. "The second half of July and virtually all of August were overcast and gloomy with an absence of both the necessary heat and luminosity to really ripen the grapes adequately. Thanks to a superb September however, the grapes rapidly ripened and while we probably could have begun picking on the ban de vendange (declared September 29th), we decided to push our luck and wait a few more days. We were rewarded with sugars that ranged from 11.5 to 12.5% and near perfect acidities. Yields were generous after the tiny 2003 harvest, coming in between 60 and 70 hl/ha. While perhaps not ideal, this is a level for chardonnay that can still provide for excellent quality provided that you don't press too hard. We pressed gently and because of a fairly severe attack of oidium, which we managed to contain, we still decided that it was best to do a longer débourbage than usual to avoid any contamination. I quite like the vintage because it has plenty of classic Chablis character and excellent balance, which should permit the wines to age very well over the medium term." The Brocard '04s offer much to like and for those who love classically styled Chablis, these will not disappoint. The present plan is to bottle between July and November.

As an aside, Brocard is emphatically in the no oak camp as almost 100% stainless steel is used from start to finish (though a few wines see a bit of oak) and this approach seems to have been particularly successful in 2003. The Domaine Sainte-Claire designation is used to indicate a 15th Century church that is directly adjacent to the state-of-the-art winery.

Lean and stony, yet has purity. Lemon, apple and mineral flavors are wound around a steely core. Long and a tad green on the finish. Best from 2009 through 2020. 650 cases made. –BS Score: 90 Wine Spectator

A hint of reduction detracts mildly from the expressive green fruit nose nuanced by hints of the exotic that gives way to exceptionally rich and explosive flavors that seem to go on and on. This is not a particularly elegant wine but for those who enjoy Chablis that makes a statement, this delivers what you're looking for because while this isn't subtle it is dramatic as the intensity is almost painful. Tasted: Oct 01, 2006 Score: 92 Drink: 2010+ Issue 24 Allen Meadows; Burghound

As usual, most of the Brocard family, including enologist Clothide Davenne, were on hand to talk about the most recent vintage and their various new projects. In particular, Brocard's son Julien, who is in charge of viticulture for the domaine, is enthusiastically driving to convert the vineyards to biodynamic farming, noting that "we presently have 35 of our 135 ha farmed this way and we hope to have the rest converted over the next 5 to 7 years." Additionally, as noted above under Domaine Azo, the Brocard family has purchased it outright. As to the 2004 vintage, Brocard told me that they waited until October 3rd to begin picking. "The second half of July and virtually all of August were overcast and gloomy with an absence of both the necessary heat and luminosity to really ripen the grapes adequately. Thanks to a superb September however, the grapes rapidly ripened and while we probably could have begun picking on the ban de vendange (declared September 29th), we decided to push our luck and wait a few more days. We were rewarded with sugars that ranged from 11.5 to 12.5% and near perfect acidities. Yields were generous after the tiny 2003 harvest, coming in between 60 and 70 hl/ha. While perhaps not ideal, this is a level for chardonnay that can still provide for excellent quality provided that you don't press too hard. We pressed gently and because of a fairly severe attack of oidium, which we managed to contain, we still decided that it was best to do a longer débourbage than usual to avoid any contamination. I quite like the vintage because it has plenty of classic Chablis character and excellent balance, which should permit the wines to age very well over the medium term." The Brocard '04s offer much to like and for those who love classically styled Chablis, these will not disappoint. The present plan is to bottle between July and November.

As an aside, Brocard is emphatically in the no oak camp as almost 100% stainless steel is used from start to finish (though a few wines see a bit of oak) and this approach seems to have been particularly successful in 2003. The Domaine Sainte-Claire designation is used to indicate a 15th Century church that is directly adjacent to the state-of-the-art winery.

From vines in a 1.1 ha parcel; this was vinified and matured in 100% oak barrels, averaging 3 to 4 years of age. The oak influence is quite similar to that of the ’02 Blanchots, which is to say noticeable but not dominant, framing bright, intense, quite powerful aromas of orchard fruits, citrus and a hint of anise. The big, robust, intense and muscular flavors retain first rate detail and precision plus deliver outstanding complexity on the impressively long finish. This is built for the medium term and should benefit from 3 to 4 years of cellar time. (90-93)/2006-12 Burghound.

A pretty and relatively perfumed nose of white floral notes nuanced by hints of citrus and crushed sea shell leads to textured and utterly delicious middle weight flavors that offer fine intensity and persistence for a wine at this level. This should drink well young. Tasted: Oct 01, 2010 Score: 87-89 Drink: 2012+ Issue 40

Bernard Raveneau said that the 2009 vintage "reminds me a lot of the 2000 vintage though in certain cases, 2006 also comes to mind. We began picking on the 14th of September and brought in a very clean crop of between 52 and 58 hl/ha, which is somewhat more generous than what we realized in 2008. The fruit was also quite ripe as sugars ranged between 12.5 and 13%, which means that there was essentially no chaptalization. The post-malo pHs were good if not exceptional as they settled in a range of 3.2 to 3.3, which will allow the wines to possess good vibrancy. I think the '09s will be popular even though they're not quite as classically styled as 2007 or 2008." As to the now in-bottle Raveneau 2008s, they are brilliant wines that are even better than I imagined that they would be and are very much worth your attention.  Allen Meadows' Burghound; October 2010

One of the interesting things about the Raveneau wines over the years is how uncannily they seem to exactly represent the vintage characteristics. You will find that each of these three vintages is entirely different from one another. The 2001s are more forward, rounder and slightly sweeter; friendlier if you will. By contrast, the 2000s are a blend of the 2001s and the 1999s in that they are not as austere and backwards as the '99s but neither are they as forward or exuberant as the 2001s. Because I am an enthusiastic admirer of classic Chablis, which is to say that understated, slightly austere, penetrating style of wine with pronounced acidity and chiseled flavors, I very much like the Raveneau '99s but be aware that they may be a bit too lean for some tastes.

Tasting note: This too is very understated yet expressive and one knows instantly that this can only be Chablis. Round, full, supple and nicely intense flavors are supported by a solid and ripe acid backbone plus a bit more weight and density than the Montmains. This is really quite lovely with a tangy finish. Be sure to decant this in advance as the intensity really comes on after 30 minutes or so of air. Tasted: Oct 01, 2002 Score: 88 Drink: 2006-12 Issue 8 Burghound

This is a robust, exuberant wine and even though it is somewhat austere, this makes a firm statement on both the nose and the palate and it offers buckets of classic Chablis character with an almost pungent minerality; indeed I could taste the minerality the next day. It was fascinating to compare this with the Blanchots because even though the Montée de Tonnerre was bigger, richer and more powerful, it seemed almost rustic in comparison with the grand cru. A very impressive wine for the vintage that will require another few years to be at its best. Consistent notes. Tasted: Oct 30, 2005 Score: 90 Drink: Try from 2007+ Allen Meadows; Burghound