By Farr Tout Pres Pinot Noir 2013
Nick and Gary Farr stand side by side, but aren’t afraid to go head-to-head when their opinions differ. Each generation has developed a distinctive winemaking style based on his individual experience and taste, and their respective lines—By Farr by Gary, and Farr Rising by Nick—have received critical acclaim both in Australia and overseas.
Tout Pres was planted in 2001 and is a very special and intriguing site. It rises above the other vineyards, and each of the three slopes consists of a different soil type. The largest slope is black volcanic soil over limestone; the second is quartz gravel mixed with red ironstone; the third is an iron strand in grey sandy loam. The clones, which will acclimatise and mutate over time to become the ‘Tout Pres clone’, are 113, 114, 115, 667, 777 and MV6.
With 7300 vines per half-acre, Tout Pres is the most densely planted vineyard on the estate—hence its name, which translates as “very cosy”. This land is a challenge to farm, but well worth the effort. The soils and close competition force the vines to work hard, with the result being fruit that is lush but masculine, and which provides the coveted structure found only in the most age-worthy wines.
With every year that passes, the Tout Pres vineyard’s subtleness and delicate fruit structure are becoming increasingly pronounced in the wine. The bouquet fills the glass with spicy fruit, mineral elements and a hint of integrated French oak, with the darkness and essence of the Moorabool Valley true expressions of site. This wine exhibits primary and secondary flavours, which strengthen the overall integration for a seamless finish. It is a tightly packed combination of plums and undergrowth with an edgy acidity—and one of our favourite drops.
This is another pinot masterpiece from the experienced hands of Gary Farr. Super concentrated and commanding, it has the classic iron fist in a velvet glove style of powerful elegance. The nose is composed and fragrant with rich dark cherry fruits, bergamot, fresh foresty aromas and cola; oak is beautifully integrated. The palate has impeccable balance from start to finish. Dense and yet silky, tannins build evenly and the wine flows effortlessly, delivering dark spiced cherry flavor with essence-like concentration. This has all the class of Grand Cru Burgundy. Drink now and for up to 10+ years. Rating: 97 Points. Nick Stock, JamesSuckling.com
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