Jean Marc Burgaud works in Cote du Py and surrounding parcels in Morgon. Crowned by Robert Parker’s Wine Buyer’s Guide as one of only eight five-star estates in Beaujolais, he is going from strength to strength and his response to critical acclaim and consumer adulation has been to work even harder. The importer Neville Yates reports that he was in the cellars tasting back to his first vintage, 1992, when his English importer urged Jean-Marc to take advantage of the super-ripe 2009 vintage and put up his prices to something that might enable him to eke out a more comfortable living. Jean-Marc was reluctant but eventually caved: he jacked the prices up about 20c a bottle!
The 2013 Morgon Côte du Py James has the same proportion of 350- and 500-liter barrels as the Javernières; however, I feel that the oak is even more enmeshed within the fruit, allowing the terroir to be expressed – red plum, sea spray and a touch of boysenberry jam. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, finely tuned acidity, refined and elegant, with a long and precise finish. This is absolutely superb – one of the best wines of the vintage.
Jean-Marc Burgaud had his arm bandaged up when I visited him this year. I enquired about this injury and he told me that he fell off the back of the tractor in the vineyard. Winemaking – it can be a dangerous business. “The 2014 vintage was very nice vintage,” he explained. “July was not perfect and it was a little rainy in August, but September was better. The wines are fruitier than 2013, and I think it will drink earlier. I’m using larger barrels now [up to 500-liters] as I find that in some Beaujolais the oak is too strong.” Jean-Marc creates some of the best Beaujolais wines that you can buy. His 2013 Morgon Côte du Py Cuvée James is one of the standout wines of the vintage: tensile, fresh, full of nervosité and joie-de-vivre and strongly recommended. Rating: 93 Points; Drink: 2017-2030; Date: Jun 2015; Neal Martin - eRobertParker.com #219