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Special Cuvee is a triumph of complexity and balance, at once rich and full, fresh and fine. Pinot noir (sixty percent) takes the lead with its rich fruit mince spice complexity, followed by the precise lemon zest freshness of chardonnay (twenty-five percent). Reserve wines bring Bollinger's signature yeasty, gingery notes, while barrel complexity adds a creamy texture and hints of brioche, nougat and almond. The finish pulls it all together into a masterfully controlled crescendo that lingers clean and long, with outstanding persistence and excellent, textural minerality. This wine has been precisely on form every time and everywhere I have tasted it this year. Price: $100. Rating: 95 Points; Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide

Seeing the subtle changes and tweaks in the Bollinger cellar, it is easy to understand why this house is in career-best form. Special Cuvee makes an engaging play of freshness and zesty, nervy appeal against commanding yet measured power and complexity. Lemon citrus, spiced apple, floral elements and minerally accents are all here. Assertive pinot noir drives the palate, some lightly grilled nuts build as it goes and the finish is exhilaratingly fresh. Alcohol: 12%. Closure: cork. Drink: now. Price: $110. Nick Stock, Good Wine Guide 

Given the number of champagnes priced between $95 and $99.99, I took it upon myself to reduce the price of Bollinger from $100 to $99.95. Mind you, it's typical of Bollinger to ignore tawdry marketing. Long since free of the aldehydic problems which once disfigured the wine, this is very rich and complex, with pronounced biscuity/creamy textures and flavours before moving through to a fine finish. Only 25% chardonnay. Price: $99.95. Rating: 94 Points & Top 100; James Halliday, The Weekend Australian 

A rich, smoky champagne, with hints of marzipan and fennel seed accenting honeyed malt, bread dough, baked apple and gingersnap flavours. It's all focused by intense acidity, which meshes beautifully into the layers of flavour and refined texture, with a lingering finish. Drink: now through to 2021. Rating: 94 Points; Wine Spectator


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