Blain Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet Boudriotte 1er Cru 2013
This is one of the finest white Burgundy estates, where the wine-making involves minimal interventions. It is run by Jean-Marc Blain and his wife Claudine, the daughter of Jacques Gagnard-Delagrange. The family owns some of the village’s greatest hillsides. New oak barrels are never used to excess, being subtly spread amongst the different cuvées, so that spicy oakiness is never perceptible here. Blain is also prudent with stirring-up of the lees (known as bâtonnage) which, if used to excess, may result in heavy wines which taste mealy. Here, on the contrary, the finished wines have great purity of fruit, with balanced acidity and long, clean flavours which clearly evoke the wines’ precise origins.
The always understated Jean-Marc Blain, like many of his colleagues, noted that 2013 "once again threw everything but the kitchen sink at us. In addition to the lousy flowering we had a severe attack of mildew that required a lot of attention in the vineyards, which in and of itself wasn't the worst but when you add in the constant rain it seriously complicated matters because we couldn't get the machinery into the vines to treat. All of this cost us quite a bit of yield, in fact we were down 25% to 30% in the grands crus and up to 50% elsewhere as there was hail in Volnay and Pommard. Despite all of that the wines are really very good. I love the style as the wines are super refreshing and very terroir." Blain noted that the 2013s were bottled in January, 2014 without fining or filtration.
Here too there is a subtle note of petrol to the notably floral and citrus peel aromas. There is fine volume to the sleek and seductively textured flavors that exhibit a taut muscularity that continues onto the solidly persistent finish. If this can add more depth than my score already envisions this could surprise to the upside. Score: 90 Points; Tasted: June 2015; Drink: 2020+; Issue: 59; Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Boudriotte has a much more introspective, almost sullen bouquet compared to the Clos Saint Jean – faint dry herb/tertiary scents. The palate is taut and linear, a little conservative perhaps with a light marine influence toward the saline finish (again, that almost Muscadet-like saltiness lingering on the aftertaste.) There is something enigmatic about this Chassagne, and I suspect it will blossom and meliorate with bottle age. Rating 92 points; Drink: 2017-2030; Date: Dec 2014; Neil Martin - eRobertParker.com #216
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