Blain Gagnard Chassagne Montachet Morgeot 1er Cru 2013
This is one of the finest white Burgundy estates, where the wine-making involves minimal interventions. It is run by Jean-Marc Blain and his wife Claudine, the daughter of Jacques Gagnard-Delagrange. The family owns some of the village’s greatest hillsides. New oak barrels are never used to excess, being subtly spread amongst the different cuvées, so that spicy oakiness is never perceptible here. Blain is also prudent with stirring-up of the lees (known as bâtonnage) which, if used to excess, may result in heavy wines which taste mealy. Here, on the contrary, the finished wines have great purity of fruit, with balanced acidity and long, clean flavours which clearly evoke the wines’ precise origins.
The always understated Jean-Marc Blain, like many of his colleagues, noted that 2013 "once again threw everything but the kitchen sink at us. In addition to the lousy flowering we had a severe attack of mildew that required a lot of attention in the vineyards, which in and of itself wasn't the worst but when you add in the constant rain it seriously complicated matters because we couldn't get the machinery into the vines to treat. All of this cost us quite a bit of yield, in fact we were down 25% to 30% in the grands crus and up to 50% elsewhere as there was hail in Volnay and Pommard. Despite all of that the wines are really very good. I love the style as the wines are super refreshing and very terroir." Blain noted that the 2013s were bottled in January, 2014 without fining or filtration.
There is plenty of citrus character to the acacia blossom, petrol, white orchard fruit and discreet wood nuances. The medium weight plus flavors possess fine size, weight and punch along with solid mid-palate concentration that adds to the impression of power on the borderline chewy finish. This is not an elegant wine but then again Morgeot rarely is. Score: 90 Points; Tasted: June 2015; Drink: 2020+; Issue: 59; Allen Meadows - Burghound
The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot has quite a conservative bouquet, perhaps without the same expressive personality as the Boudriottes at this early juncture. The palate is harmonious and smooth in the mouth, hints of white peach and nectarine infiltrating the citrus fruit and concluding with a focused and detailed finish. Once those aromatics awaken this will be a delicious Chassagne to enjoy over the next 12-15 years. Rating 91 Points; Drink: 2016-2030; Tasted: Dec 2014; Neal Martin - eRobertParker.com #216
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