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Stephen George wears three winemaker hats: one for Ashton Hills, drawing upon a 3.5-ha estate vineyard high in the Adelaide Hills; one for Galah Wines; and one for Wendouree. It would be hard to imagine three wineries with more diverse styles, from the elegance and finesse of Ashton Hills to the awesome power of Wendouree. James Halliday Wine Companion

Stephen George is fanatical about pinot noir in his special pocket high in the Adelaide Hills, and he’s spent the past 30 years experimenting with 25 different clones of the variety. Four have stood out as the best, and for the first time, his Estate Pinot Noir is a blend exclusively of these. The lively, pristine and mild 2012 season proved to be the perfect time to do it, too. The result is delightfully seductive, singing with red cherries, berry compote, strawberries, anise, mixed spice and rose hip. The exotic overtones of whole bunch fermentation rightfully take second place to the tangy fruits of this cool site. It’s perfectly proportioned in every dimension – fragrance, texture, depth, structure and persistence. Subtle French oak builds a very long finish, with silky mouth feel built primarily by fine, supple fruit tannins and tangy acidity. It will be deceptively long-lived. Best Drinking: 2014-2027; Rating: 95 Points; Tyson Stelzer, Wine Taste Weekly Edition 149.


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