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The Perego family have been tending vines on these sheer granite terraces in the mountainous Valtellina since 1860. The vines are so far north into the alps they are practically in Switzerland. They work only with Nebbiolo, or Chiavennasca as it is called in these parts, growing the grapes up to 700 metres above sea level on sheer, south-facing, sunlit vines that dig straight into rock. The resulting fruit is intensely mineral.

Ultimi Viagra. It’s a Sforzato style, only the grapes hang in the vineyard, rather than a shed, so they can’t call it that anymore with the DOCG rules. Glacé cherry, marzipan, strawberry, white pepper, spice, alpine herbs, fresh mint – it’s all go here. Medium bodied, slightly sweet cherry and spice, white pepper tannin and flavour – the tug-of-war here between succulence and tannin is such an enjoyable game – and a red fruited finish of fine length and pleasing spiciness. It still seems pretty young to me, so I’d suggest there’s a bit more to come. Character plus. I had to nip off to eat a piece of Reggiano mid-tasting: what a treat. Alcohol: 14%; Price: $139; Closure: Cork; Drink: 2020 - 2030+ Rated: 95+ Points; Gary Walsh; The Wine Front

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