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Located in Monforte d'Alba, Poderi Aldo Conterno is considered one of the finest producers in the region. The son of legendary producer Giacomo Conterno, Aldo formed his own estate in 1969 and was inspired by the modernist techniques of Angelo Gaja. Aldo sadly passed away in May 2012 and the estate is now run by his three sons, Franco, Stefano and Giacomo. They tend 25 hectares of vines including three cru vineyards on the famed Bussia slope in Monforte d'Alba. These three vineyard sites, Cicala, Colonello and Romirasco are the flagship wines from the estate through the entire range from the entry level Bussia Soprana is superb.

The 2011 Barolo Bussia Colonnello shows a compelling level of brawn and heft. This is an elaborate vinous patchwork with dark fruit nuances backed by ethereal tones of balsam herb and licorice. The wine is sturdy, compact and extremely well-constructed. It takes a few minutes to open, but once it does Barolo Bussia Colonnello bursts forth with blackberry, plum, spice and rum cake. Menthol tones and balsam herbs add an important sense of vertical lift and buoyancy. They add beautiful contrasts to the ripe and brawny aromatic elements also on display. Rating 93 Points; eRobertParker.com #219 Jun 2015; Monica Larner; Drink: 2017-2035

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